Chalet Ciro

This retro seafront chalet sells everything from coffee and pastries to crêpes, but you head here for the graffe (doughnuts) and the gelato. Indeed, find both in Ciro's obscenely decadent cono graffa, gelato served in a doughnut cone. Locals justifiably call it a bomba (bomb). Pay inside, choose your flavors at the street-side counter, then kill the cals with a bayside saunter.