This is a slightly odd opportunity to tour someone's home and personal art gallery, which also happens to be a deeply dilapidated 18th-century palace, built by a pasha from Marrakesh. The main courtyard, with double-size salons, is the height of Andalusian style and includes a well-preserved early-20th-century bathroom, still in use today. Pass through the dim, enormous kitchen with gigantic cooking pots to reach the smaller harem court in back. Caretaker Abdelkhader's obsessive pointillist paintings fill one major salon.





