3 Days in South Moravia’s Wine Region by Bike

Czech beer is widely considered to be the best in the world. And its wine? Well, few people know Czechia as a wine-producing country. The industry has had its ups and downs. The communist era saw quantity prioritized over quality. Since then, quality has gone from strength to strength and Czech wines are making a name for themselves in the world of wine. South Moravia is the country’s premier wine region. During my recent visit, I spent three days touring the region by bike, savoring local tipples, enjoying the picturesque landscape and exploring the UNESCO-listed Lednice-Valtice Cultural Landscape.

• When to arrive: Summer is warm and sunny and ideal for cycling to vineyards, wine cellars and the region’s grand châteaux.

• How to get from the airport: We travelled by car from Vienna Airport to Mikulov, which took roughly an hour.

• Getting around town: The best way to tour the region is by bike or e-bike following the Moravian Wine Trails.

• Where to stay: I stayed at the charming Hotel Tanzberg in Mikulov, nestled in the Jewish quarter and close to the town square and the chateau. I also spent one night at Hotel Lotrinský, a four-star hotel in a delightful historical building in the center of Velké Pavlovice.

• What to pack: Bring activewear, athletic footwear, sun cream and sunglasses for cycling. Wine cellars are chilly; bring an extra layer when visiting one.

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Day 1

After a short flight to Vienna, the drive to Mikulov took about an hour and we arrived in the afternoon. Sitting right on the Czech-Austria border, Mikulov is a beautiful town, with a charming town square. To get the lay of the land, we took a walking tour that focused on the history of the town, taking in the Upper Synagogue located in the Jewish quarter, just a few doors down from Hotel Tanzberg. From there, we moved on to the nearby Mikulov Chateau, and after taking in the panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, we descended into the castle’s cellar to look at some traditional winemaking equipment. There, we encountered a giant wine barrel from the 1600s that could hold 100,000 liters of wine. Its sheer size was astonishing, and in fact, it was not surprising to learn it had been constructed in place in the cellar. Next we wandered through the castle garden and into the old town. 

Evening

After exploring the old town some, we made our way to Korek Mikulov for our first wine tasting. We entered the cellar for an expert-led tasting of local wines from the Dunajovské kopce winegrowers' association, and tasted mostly whites. The region is not known for reds, though we sampled a rich Blaufränkisch. The standout for me – and the rest of our group – was No. 44, a Grüner Veltliner from Vinařství No. 44. It stole the show and became the benchmark against which we assessed the remainder of the wines we tasted.

We dined at Marcel Ihnačák Restaurant where I had tasty tarhoňa noodles (egg noodles) with turkey and seasonal vegetables, paired with local wine.

Day 2

How I spent the day

We headed straight to Mikolovna - Půjčovna elektrokol & kol to collect our e-bikes, then pedaled east from Mikulov through wine country to explore the Lednice-Valtice Cultural Landscape. We took the EuroVelo 13 Iron Curtain Trail and, at times, ventured onto the EuroVelo 9 Baltic-Adriatic, which meant we were riding mostly flat, smooth surfaces on dedicated bike paths. It was a beautiful, leisurely day of cycling. We paused at the Lednice fishponds – a nice spot for birders – and the impressive Kolonáda Na Rajstně colonnade as we approached Valtice.

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Soon, we came to our first longer stop: Valtice Castle, the first of two grand castles of the aristocratic Liechtenstein family. We admired the castle from the outside, and though tours of the interior are possible and recommended, we went straight to the castle cellar and the Wine Salon of the Czech Republic to sample some of the country's finest wines. Visitors can pay for a two-hour tasting and wander the cellar, sipping and learning about many of the 100 best wines selected during the annual Czech National Wine Competition that are stored there. We went straight for a Gold Medal Welschriesling, and while we browsed and sipped one or two other wines, we knew we needed to stay sharp for the remainder of our ride.

At Lednice Castle, we opted for the tour, which allowed us to enjoy the castle's lavish interiors and learn more about the Liechtenstein family. We also wandered part of the extensive landscaped park and gardens and popped into the greenhouse.

Cycling back towards Mikulov, we made one final stop at Vican Winery and enjoyed a refreshing tasting overlooking the vineyards. 

Evening

Back in Mikulov, we returned to Korek Mikulov; this time for dinner. I ordered the turkey risotto and washed it down with another glass of local wine.

Day 3

After breakfast, we travelled by car to Velké Pavlovice, northeast of Mikulov, and checked into Hotel Lotrinský. The hotel provided our e-bikes for the day and we got ready for another pedal-powered journey.

How I spent the day

It's a short journey east from Velké Pavlovice to Lavandia lavender farm in Starovičky. The farm was charming and we had an opportunity to stroll the hillside fields of fragrant lavendar, enjoying the dreamy vistas. On sale at the farm, find all sorts of lavender products; I tried the lemonade (not bad!) and an ice pop (very good!).

For lunch, we stopped at Artevini Resort & Winery in the vineyard-covered hills just outside Velké Pavlovice. While the resort was in the final stages of construction when we visited, we enjoyed a beautiful lunch at the property's restaurant, headed by Chef Martin Fišer.

Next we cycled through more vineyards, making our way to Vrbice. This small village on the Moravian Wine Trail makes you feel like you’re stepping into JRR Tolkien's fictional town of Hobbiton in the hobbits' homeland of the Shire. Here, winemakers have built their wine cellars right into the hillsides, with the oldest cellars dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. Strolling between the cellar doors amid the area's beautiful scenery was magic. We stopped for a quick refreshment at Kafé Sklep before a slow-paced pedal back to Velké Pavlovice.

Evening

At Winery Knoll, during dinner and an expert-led eight-wine tasting, we learned about the history of the winery and the impressive stone cellar. Some wine highlights included glasses of Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Chardonnay and Neuburger. Alongside Welschriesling and Grüner Veltliner, these grapes do very well in the region and are among some of the best we sampled during the trip.

This night of wine tasting, merrymaking and Czech hospitality was a perfect end to a lovely few days among South Moraia's acres of vineyards. There are more paths to be cycled and more wines to be sampled, though, so I've already placed a return trip on my travel wish list.

Sandie traveled to South Moravia at the invitation of CzechTourism. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.