Over the past 50 years, Little Italy has shrunk from a big, brash boot to an ultraslim sandal – but if you skip down Mulberry St, the sight of gingham tablecloths prepped outside pasta shops will inspire nostalgia for the land of olive oil and wine.
When Little Italy Was Big
Mulberry St, named after the mulberry trees that once lined its sidewalks, became synonymous with Italy in the late 19th and early 20th centuries as millions of Italian immigrants funneled into the country. By 1910, roughly 10,000 Italian Americans crammed themselves into a 2-mile radius of tenement buildings; Jacob Riis called it the 'foul core of New York’s slums.'
It wasn’t long before residents decided to say 'arrivederci' to tenement living. After World War II, the community began a mass exodus to Brooklyn, the suburbs and beyond. Soon, Chinatown expanded, swallowing pieces of Little Italy, and today, upscale boutiques have transformed the enclave into SoHo’s chic emulator. But wiping out the Italian heritage is hard: Mulberry St is practically soaked in red sauce.
Old Country Tastes
There’s no shortage of Italian restaurants on Mulberry, but remember to be discerning. There’s a lot of mediocre, overpriced food, and restaurant hawkers will try to lure you to their alfresco tables. Skip their spiels and head to authentic eateries loved by locals.
If you’re hunting for pizza perfection, nab a table at Rubirosa to scarf down whisper-thin pizza crust, smothered in vodka sauce and fresh mozzarella. Traditional Italian dishes delight at Grotta Azzurra, a staple since 1908, favored by Frank Sinatra. More American-Italian ghosts hang out at Umbertos Clam House. In 1972, crime boss Joey Gallo was shot and killed on site; today, the only thing worth dying for here are the clams. For dessert, Ferrara Bakery & Cafe hits the spot. Order a sweet ricotta-stuffed cannoli or gelato to savor street-side.
September Celebration
Every September since 1926, Little Italy has honored the Patron Saint of Naples at the San Gennaro Festival – an 11-day festival on Mulberry St scented with fried dough, juicy sausages and meatball parms. Throughout the celebrations, the neighborhood returns to its red-white-green glory, overflowing with Italians who come "home" to party.
