McLeod Ganj’s greatest claim to modern fame is the Tsuglagkhang Complex (dalailama.com; free), also known as the Thekchen Choeling Complex or – more commonly – as the Dalai Lama Temple. This somewhat austere, double-story complex houses the Namgyal Monastery, where the Dalai Lama lives when he’s not on the road, along with a couple of small shops selling incense and thangkas and a bookshop stocked with tomes penned by His Holiness himself.
To access the main part of the complex, you’ll need to pass through security (no knives, matches, perfumes or other flammable materials are allowed inside), into a large, spartan covered courtyard. Head up a flight of stairs to the 1st floor to visit the Tsuglagkhang Main Temple Room, signposted simply as "The Tibetan Temple," which houses the Dalai Lama’s teaching throne, a giant golden statue of Lord Buddha, and images of Buddhist saint Padmasambhava and deity Avalokiteśvara (aka Chenrezig).
While the Dalai Lama once gave frequent public audiences at the complex, he's slowed down a bit over the years. These days, seeing him in person requires a fair bit of planning – and luck. Up-to-date information about His Holiness’s teaching schedule and public appearances is available at his website (dalailama.com/office/public-audiences). To attend a public blessing (typically held on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays when he's in town), email ohhdl@dalailama.com.
At 1.30pm (except Sundays) you can watch monks in lively debate in the central courtyard beneath high, expo-style canvas shades.
