Sary Mazar

Shaded by ancient chinar (plane) trees, a pair of small but ornately stucco-fronted 17th-century tombs is set beside a fine old mosque with tapering wooden columns. A much bigger new mosque next door replaced the once atmospheric old men's chaikhana that formerly made this place so special.

From the bazaar, take marshrutka 11.

A set of 18 tiny windowless cells known as chehlkhona here would have been used for meditation by those studying the Quran to become religious leaders. Generally, the sequestration would last 40 days, during which time the pilgrim would leave the cell only briefly at night to attend to bodily functions.


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