Rocca Paolina

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Commissioned by Pope Paolo III in the 1540s, this fortress wiped out entire sections of a formerly wealthy neighbourhood. Its insides have long since been hollowed out to make way for scale mobili (escalators) up to the historic centre, but it's still a fascinating sight with its mighty walls, moody lighting and dark nooks and crannies, and is sometimes used to host temporary exhibitions. Up above is a small park, the Giardini Carducci.

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