A great attraction is this surreal, lunarlike crater of an ancient volcano, where seawater is transformed into shimmering salt beds. You can see the old salt extraction machinery of the 1805 plant; float in the medicinal salt water; have a massage, salt scrub or mud treatment at the small Salinas Relax spa; and have a meal at the restaurant.
Pedra do Lume is 6km southeast of Espargos; taxis from Santa Maria charge between CVE3500 and CVE4500, with a wait of two hours. It's often mobbed with tour groups.