The near-mythical site of Parque Arqueológico Choquequirao was built by Pachacutec and originally misidentified as Vilcabamba or Vitcos. More extensive than Machu Picchu and only reached via days-long treks, it’s a world wonder without the crowds. The cloud-forested ruins extend over an 18km site (more than triple the area of Machu Picchu), with the ceremonial area alone occupying nearly a kilometer of this. Its iconic llama terraces – white stone images of the camelids that decorate the fronts of the steps – align with the famed Yacana constellation and are highlights; other sites of interest include the House of the Waterfall, Plaza Hanan and the Ushnu religious center set on the head of a hill. Like Machu Picchu, which it connects to on the Qhapaq Ñan (and is another epic hike of the region), its setting – dramatically sweeping the saddle and mountain tops – is pure jungle majesty.
The most popular route – and most group treks – leave from the village of Capuliyoc, which has opened some lodgings in recent years. The hike is among the most challenging in the region, with ascents and descents amid the mountains dropping and climbing over 1000m several times over the course of a day, and river crossings via oraya (Inca zipline). Close to the site, the community of Morampata has opened several lodgings here over the past few years. The exit is gentler, winding to Yanama, and the newly paved road here from Chaullay makes the out and back "Nueva Ruta" a more accessible path to the ruins, which will surely become enterable – and busy – for all when the long-promised cable car opens here from Abancay.cxdc. Camping is free.
