It’s a somber walk through the floor-to-ceiling, delicately displayed bone-stacked burial shaft of the Ossuary at the Church of St James (Kostnice u sv Jakuba) – the resting place of 50,000 people who perished in the Thirty Years’ War and the plagues. This vault, the second-largest ossuary in Europe after the Paris Catacombs, was discovered in 2001 during reconstruction of the square, and the bones were rearranged in an act of remembrance.