About 80km north of Udaipur in the tumbling Aravalli Hills, Kumbhalgarh is home to this 14th-century isolated fort with a derelict palace, perched 1100m above sea level, with hazy views melting into the distance. Kumbhalgarh Fort (tourism.rajasthan.gov.in/kumbhalgarh-fort.html; entry ₹600, sunset sound & light show ₹354) was only conquered once in its history. It took the combined armies of Amber, Marwar and the Mughal emperor Akbar to breach its strong defenses, and they only managed to hang on to it for two days.
One of the many forts built by Rana Kumbha (r 1433–68), under whom Mewar reached its greatest extents, Kumbhalgarh was the most important Mewar fort after Chittorgarh, and the rulers, sensibly, used to retreat here in times of danger.
The fort’s thick walls stretch about 36km; they’re wide enough in some places for eight horses to ride abreast and it’s possible to walk right round the circuit (allow two days).
Behind the fort's barrel-buttressed walls, the steeply stacked Badal Mahal palace features murals of elephants waging war on other wildlife in its empty chambers. Take in the stupendous rooftop views, then escape the crowds on the peaceful pathways that meander between the ancient temples scattered inside the walls. There are around 360 intact and ruined temples, some of which date back to the Mauryan period in the 2nd century BC.
Loop counterclockwise from the fort gates, passing the multi-level Vedi Temples, the column-fronted Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, and the ruined but intricately carved Golerao Jain Temples, alongside dotted step-wells, dams and farmsteads.
If you’re staying here and want to make an early start on your hike around the wall, you may still get into the fort before 9am, although no one will be around to sell you a ticket.
There’s a Light and Sound Show (in Hindi) at the fort at 6.30pm.
