Pictured on the 20TJS banknote and just 30km west of Dushanbe, the remains of this 18th-century fort make for an interesting day trip from the capital. All that survived a 1924 Russian assault is the twin-towered gateway, but more is being reconstructed, and the site gains some atmosphere from being set across a square from two 17th/18th-century madrassas. The older one contains a pitifully unkempt museum in the various cell-rooms around its courtyard.
Through the castle gateway, the rising lane passes a series of craft shops, many of which specialise in local costumes that you can rent for selfies rather than buy. Although the castle site remains unreconstructed, a few ponies are available for short loops around the inner courtyard area. Mostly suitable for kids.
To reach the fort, switch from bus 8 to minibus 270 at Zarnisar Bazaar for Hisor town and from there take a shared taxi (5TJS). Alternatively, a private taxi direct from Dushanbe costs around 130TJS. The ride is just over 30 minutes, but allow extra time to stop and ponder the world's largest melon en route.
