A tiny fairy-tale islet in the bay is home to the pocket-sized Fort Hammenhiel, a small Portuguese-built bastion that passed on to the Dutch in the 1650s. It feels like the kind of place that would house the Count of Monte Christo. The thick coral walls are over 4m high and are now home to a Navy-run hotel. Boats (Rs 3300) make the five-minute trip out here from the restaurant dock.

