The twisting, climbing CV147 leads, after about 6km, to this occasionally misty inland range – cooler than the coast – with a Carmelite monastery and restaurant with a view at its heart. Far from being a desert (for the monks that meant a place for mystic withdrawal), the reserve is a green area perfect for outdoor activities. From Monte Bartolo (728m), its highest point, there are staggering views. The tourist office hands out an excellent booklet listing a range of different hill walks.
