Enriching the city's cultural cache and establishing Valencia as a beacon of contemporary architecture, Ciudad de Las Artes y las Ciencias is the city's glittering prize, in concrete form. Occupying a vast swathe of the old Túria riverbed, the aesthetically astonishing build is mostly the work of Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava.
Palau de les Arts
Despite budget and design issues, the effect of this estimated €1.2 billion project, which began in 1994, has utterly transformed the city. It's all about mighty, organic architecture, which Calatrava balanced by using local ceramic mosaic tiles called trencadís. They're perhaps the most striking on Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía, which broods over the old riverbed like a giant spaceship. It's an ultramodern performing-arts complex with four auditoriums, and the main hall is designed for opera (Plácido Domingo has bellowed here many times).
It's here that you can buy tour tickets for the building. No booking needed, just head over the bridge to the box office. They're €12 and take place 11am, 12.15pm, 1.30pm, 3.45pm, 5pm Monday to Saturday; and 11am, 12.15pm, 1.30pm Sunday. Note: the tour only covers the Palau de les Arts, but it's more affordable than the €80 tour (listed on cac.es), which takes in the complex as a whole.
Science & Exhibitions
To the south, the unblinking eye of the Hemisfèric houses an IMAX cinema with an enormous 900 sq meter screen. Don't fancy a film? Just a walk through the eyeball-shaped building is enough. The bars along the roof look like eyelashes and the pupil conceals the cinema. Adjoining here, across an expanse of water, Museo de las Ciencias Príncipe Felipe stretches out like a giant whale skeleton. This science museum has a huge range of interactive material, everything from DNA play to mind-powered ballgames. Next up, resembling a giant purple mussel, the CaixaForum was something of a white elephant for many years, but now stages interesting exhibitions on diverse themes. The final element is the outstanding Oceanogràfic aquarium. The shark tunnel is an obvious draw. Less happily, the aquarium also keeps captive dolphins and belugas – research suggests this is detrimental to their welfare.
Art & Gardens
Occupying the western side of the site, the Umbracle has to be the world's most graceful car park, spanned by an arched roof and gardens. Just outside you'll find the Jardín de Astronomía, filled with gadgets to observe the sky. Pause to measure the height of the sun or calculate where the moon is. Also near the Umbracle, Paseo del Arte is an open-air art gallery that hosts changing exhibitions from artists around the world. Polish artist Igor Mitoraj lined the path with his dominating sculptures inspired by ancient Greece, while Hung Yi deployed brilliantly colored swans inspired by his Taiwanese culture.
Rest & Refuel
There are lots of places to eat dotted around the site, but the best one is tucked away. It's hidden beneath the Palau de les Arts, nestled in the shade with striking views over the bright blue lakes. Restaurante Contrapunto is more formal than the other cafes, and the red rope at the entrance might appear haughty, but staff are very welcoming. Recline on a wicker sofa, order a beer and drink in the scenery. Peckish? The gooey cheesecake is especially good.
