Within the buildings of the former Lewis Merthyr coal mine, closed in 1983, the Rhondda Heritage Park houses the absorbing 40-minute Black Gold Experience (bookings advised), where you don a miner's helmet and lamp and, accompanied by an ex-miner, descend to the coalface. The commentary vividly recreates mine work, hammering home the social impact of the coal industry.
Other displays include recreated domestic interiors and shops, and a sobering section on the Tynewydd Colliery disaster of 1877. Upstairs there's Caffe Bracchi (9.30am-4.30pm Tues-Sat) and an art space.
The mine is located just off the A4058 in Trehafod, between Pontypridd and Porth. There are regular trains from Cardiff Central station to Trehafod (£4.80, 30 minutes), from where it's a 10-minute walk to the heritage park.
The Black Gold Experience was closed at the time of research due to Covid-19 although the cafe/arts space and some above-ground displays remained open.