San Miguel Totonicapán ('Toto') is known for its artisans. Shoemakers, weavers, tinsmiths, potters, leather workers and carpenters all make and sell their goods here. Market days are Tuesday and Saturday; it's a locals market, not a tourist affair, and it winds down by late morning.
The ride from Cuatro Caminos is along a pine-studded valley. From Totonicapán's bus station it's a 600m hike up 3a Calle to the twin main plazas, or you can take a tuk-tuk. The lower plaza has a statue of Atanasio Tzul, leader of an indigenous rebellion that started here in 1820, while the upper one, known as Parque San Miguel, is home to the large colonial church and neoclassical municipal theater.