More a village than a town, the former capital of Crimean Tatar khans is cradled in a narrow valley squeezed between two limestone escarpments. Its name means 'garden-palace', and it's a garden that needs a lot of tilling after 50 years of neglect, when its owners lived in exile. Now the Crimean Tatars are back, and although lacking resources, they have already orchestrated a minor renaissance, which benefits...
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