This shrine honors Tokugawa Ieyasu, the warlord who unified Japan in the early 17th century after 150 years of near constant war. It dates to 1651 (though it has had recent touch-ups). The exterior alone is impressive – with its blindingly golden gate – if you want to skip the admission fee. Twice a year, the shrine opens its spectacular peony garden.
Ueno Tōshō-gū is the (much smaller) Tokyo counterpart to Nikkō's grand Tōshō-gū.