A fascinating, mystical site in the high desert, Toro Muerto (meaning "Dead Bull") is named for the herds of livestock that commonly died here from dehydration as they were escorted from the mountains to the coast. A barren hillside is scattered with white volcanic boulders carved with stylized people, animals and birds. Archaeologists have documented more than 5000 such petroglyphs.
Ancient Origins
Joining a tour or hiring a private guide is recommended for this site. Though the cultural origins of the Toro Muerto petroglyphs remain unknown, most archaeologists date the mysterious drawings to the period of Wari domination, about 1200 years ago. Interpretations of the drawings vary widely; a guide can fill you in on some of the most common themes, or you can wander among the boulders yourself and formulate your own elaborate interpretations of the messages these ancient images aim to tell. Some of the most amazing carvings show people who look like they are moving. On the rocks with "moving" dancers, figures, dots and lines are carved between the figures to symbolize that music is moving between them.
Tour companies that go to the petroglyphs can be found in Arequipa's Plaza de Armas, or ask at the front desk of your accommodations. Selern Expeditions (facebook.com/selernexpedicionesaqp) is also a great choice.
Public Bus to the Petroglyphs
If you want to visit the petroglyphs on your own instead of with a tour group, it's possible on public transportation.
For a day trip by public bus, hop on the earliest Transportes del Carpio bus, which departs at 4am from Arequipa to Corire and takes about 3½ hours. From the bus stop in Corire, you can hail a cab to take you to the petroglyph site. If you want to stay overnight in the area and head to the petroglyphs the next day, Posada Picardo is a nice option with a garden, barbecue, sun terrace and spa. Staff can also help with directions and cabs to the petroglyphs site. Hostal Willy is more basic but still does the trick. Bring snacks for the bus ride because the uphill walk to the site requires a bit of effort. This area can be buzzing with mosquitos, so bring bug repellent and sunscreen.
A Stop En Route: Jurassic Park Querulpa
If you're visiting the site on a tour, your guide can also show you sights along the way.
The drive through the river-carved Majes Valley to reach the site from Arequipa, Chivay, Yanque or Cabanaconde is an attraction all its own. Ask your guide if you can stop at Jurassic Park Querulpa (free). As if the Toro Muerto petroglyphs weren’t incredibly ancient enough, something even more ancient was found in Querulpa. With its giant fake dinosaurs, it feels like an amusement park for kids, but walk to the top of the hill and you will be shocked to see actual dinosaur footprints.