The walls of the towering Templo de Viracocha are among the most formidable sights on the Inca archaeological circuit. Looking like a strange alien aqueduct, these remains were once part of one of the holiest shrines in the Inca empire. Twenty-two columns made of stone blocks helped support the largest-known Inca roof; most were destroyed by the Spanish, but their foundations are clearly seen. The remains of many houses and storage buildings are also visible, and reconstruction is an ongoing process.
Set just off the highway and a routine stop on the Cuzco–Puno route, during late afternoons you might well have the site to yourself. After the entry gate (adult/child S20/10), pass the 10 rows of Wari-built qolqas leading to the 14m high red adobe walls.
The tallest Inca structure in Peru, the temple is thought to have been built by order of Huayna Capac in reverence to the creator god Viracocha after disaster was averted when a nearby volcano erupted. The adjoining community of Raqchi hosts community tourism and are master ceramicists who hold markets in the square in front of the church behind the ruins.
