The area around the Sri Maha Bodhi tree (known as Mahavihara) is the spiritual and physical heart of ancient Anuradhapura and emanates a sanctity that still draws thousands of pilgrims, particularly on weekends, poya (full moon) days and festivals like December's Undavap Poya, when thousands of pilgrims commemorate the arrival of the sacred tree. Sunset is a magical time to visit.
The sacred bodhi tree (Ficus religiosa) was grown from a cutting brought from Bodhgaya in India, the site of Buddha's enlightenment, under the original bodhi tree. It is said to be the oldest historically authenticated tree in the world, tended by an uninterrupted succession of guardians for around 2300 years. The faithful believe that Princess Sangamitta, daughter of the Indian emperor Ashoka and sister of Mahinda, who introduced Buddhism to Sri Lanka, brought the cutting from India in the third century BCE. These days there is not one but many trees here; the oldest and holiest stands on the top platform. Railings around the trees are festooned with prayer flags and votive cloths.
Watching the devotion on display can be a powerful experience. Orange-robed monks chant at the base of the tree, as pilgrims dressed in white make offerings of purple lotus blooms and devotees meditate quietly in secluded corners.
In 1985, during the dark days of the civil war, Tamil Tigers opened fire on the enclosure, killing several worshipers as part of a larger attack that took the lives of almost 150 civilians.