The subdued evening lighting and welcoming service concoct a warm and homey atmosphere at this popular outpost of Sichuan cuisine. The extensive photo menu is foreigner-friendly and includes a sizeable vegetarian selection. The dàndàn noodles (¥12) are textbook spicy, while the pork wontons in hot oil (¥12) are spot on.
Not all dishes hit the Sichuanese nail on the head though, and the mápó dòufu (tofu and pork in a spicy sauce; ¥26) is wide of the mark. Quench it all with a large bottle of Budweiser for ¥30 or one of the great basil-drop cocktails. Service can be slow at busy times.
