On a hilltop in the heart of the park, 31km up the A6177 from Andújar, this chapel is the focus of one of Spain’s biggest religious events, the Romería de la Virgen de la Cabeza, on the last weekend in April. The original 13th-century shrine here was destroyed during the civil war, when it was seized by pro-Franco troops and then captured by the Republicans after eight months of determined bombardment.

