West of Lone Pine, the jagged incisors of the Sierra surge skyward in all their raw and fierce glory. Cradled by scores of smaller pinnacles, Mt Whitney is a bit hard to pick out from Hwy 395, so, for the best views, take a drive along Whitney Portal Rd through the Alabama Hills.
The mystique of Mt Whitney (14,505ft) captures the imagination, and conquering it becomes an obsession for many. The main Mt Whitney Trail (the easiest and busiest one) leaves from Whitney Portal, 13 miles west of Lone Pine via Whitney Portal Rd (closed in winter), and climbs about 6000ft over 11 miles. It’s a super-strenuous, really long walk that’ll wear out even experienced mountaineers, but it doesn’t require technical skills if attempted in summer or early fall. Earlier or later in the season, you’ll likely need an ice axe and crampons, and to stay overnight.
Many people in good physical condition make it to the top, although only superbly conditioned, previously acclimatized hikers should attempt this as a day hike. Breathing becomes difficult at these elevations, and altitude sickness is common. Rangers recommend spending a night camping at the trailhead and another at one of the two camps along the route: Outpost Camp at 3.5 miles or Trail Camp at 6 miles.
Permits ($15) are hard to come by, particularly for summer. If you're lucky enough to snag one in the February lottery, you'll receive it by email from recreation.gov about a week before your hike. Print it yourself or at the Eastern Sierra Interagency Visitor Center (fs.usda.gov/r05/inyo/recreation) in Lone Pine, where you can also get info on weather and trail conditions, and pack-out kits. If you don't get a lottery permit, you can try to capitalize on cancellations. Or you can hike the first three miles to Lone Pine Lake and back (in one day) without a permit. Near the trailhead, the Whitney Portal Store (whitneyportalstore.com) sells groceries and snacks. It also has public showers and a cafe serving enormous, delicious pancakes.
As you get a fix on this majestic megalith, whether on foot or by car, remember that the country’s lowest point is only 80 miles (as the crow flies) east of here: Badwater in Death Valley.
