About 6km south of Sivas, Moni Odigitrias is a historic monastery with a tower from which the monks fought off the Turks, the Germans and the odd pirate. A rickety ladder leads to the top for superb views. Afterwards, take a quick spin around the small museum, with its wine and olive presses, and check out the 15th-century frescoes and icons in the church up the hill.







