Think, eat, drink, feel. The provocative Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) at Berriedale is David Walsh's crazed ode to his hometown – simultaneously delivering a magnificent "up yours" to the art-world establishment. Explore the challenging, the rare, the ancient, the horny and the downright disgusting as you wander through dim-lit stone galleries cut into a promontory above the River Derwent.
The Backstory
MONA mastermind David Walsh grew up in nearby Glenorchy and turned his mathematical genius to professional gambling – and made a pile of money. An avid art collector, he originally bought the on-site Moorilla Estate winery, then launched MONA in 2011. MONA is now the largest private art gallery in the southern hemisphere, and has boosted tourism and Tasmania's general self-esteem immeasurably – the so-called "MONA effect." The ever-expanding MONA world also includes Moo Brew brewery (off-site); Manky Sally's bar in Salamanca (Moo Brew's public face – try the pilsener); the fabulously unhinged Dark Mofo winter festival; luxury accommodation, and even a recording studio. Visionary and rogue in equal measure, Walsh isn't short on ideas or ambition.
Must-See MONA
It's hard to know where to start at MONA. Perhaps the best approach is to suspend preconceived ideas of a "plan," wander through the subterranean, dim-lit galleries, and see what kind of fun comes your way.
There are, of course, some must-sees in the vast collection here. Don't bypass Snake by Sidney Nolan, a 46m-long array of 1620 panels exploring the connections between myth and modernity; and the Chamber of Pausiris, containing the coffin and mummy of a 2000-year old Egyptian.
Other essentials include the very cathartic MONA Confessional, in which you can broadcast your sins anonymously to random listeners far above; James Turrell's above-ground archi-light installation Amarna, active at sunrise and sunset (stick around); and every kid’s favorite, the aromatic Cloaca Professional poo machine. The machine gets fed in morning; the poo comes out around 2pm.
Then there are the regularly rotating, head-tripping guest exhibitions. Lost in time, space, art and darkness, three hours can pass at MONA and you still won't know how to get back to daylight.
Fine Wine, Fine Food
There are some ace places to eat and drink at MONA – it's all part of the experience.
Heavy Metal Kitchen: Indulgent burgers, grilled-meat sandwiches, charred cauliflower and hot chips for lunch on the lawn. Rock on.
Moorilla Wine Bar: Moorilla winery was here for ages before MONA showed up. Outside the museum entrance, it's share plates, coffee and drinks in the sun. Plenty of vegan; open all day.
Void Bar: Gasping for a Manhattan and some crunchy jalapeño corn? Follow the live music into the half-light, 17m underground. Museum admission applies.
Faro Bar + Restuarant: Fine dining in a light-filled space, with massive glass windows overlooking the river. The menu changes constantly – high-end and superb. Lunch and dinner, too.
Source: Five-star lunch service in an immaculate restaurant, with river views and top Tasmania ingredients (ooh, oysters). Fixed-price menus or à la carte.
Architecture as Art
Once you've ogled the art and eaten and drunk your fill, kick back on the lawn and check out mona.net.au/museum/architecture. Along with David Walsh's take on the colorful Pharos wing, there's an entertaining interview with architect James Pearce from designers Fender Katsalidis, explaining the thinking behind the architecture and the museum's amazing site. Then head back to the bar.
Embrace the O
To make any sense of MONA's label-less artworks, you'd be well advised to download the "O" app to your phone – a marvel of geospatial programming that reveals all you ever needed to know about the artwork you're standing in front of. And probably a few things you didn't. It's also useful for finding the exit. BYO headphones (there's audio).
