Mercado San Juan de Dios

Massive – at 40,000 sq meters, it's the largest indoor market in Latin America – and labyrinthine and selling pretty much everything bar the kitchen sink, what is officially called Mercado Libertad is best foraged for its street food, in particular its tortas ahogadas made with a crispy sub roll "drowned" in a spicy pork stew. Grab plenty of napkins.

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