La Torretta di Mergellina

Mergellina's broad boulevards seem a world away from La Torretta di Mergellina, a warren of earthy streets where the neighbourhood's fishermen once lived. From Via Piedigrotta, you can enter the district from Via Santa Maria della Neve (which becomes Cupa Caiafa), a skinny street flanked by religious shrines, hung washing and curious locals. Further along Cupa Caiafa, turn left into Via Generale Cucca Camillo to return to Via Piedigrotta.