The 47-sq-km site of Kudumbigala Forest Hermitage is a magical jumble of Sigiriya-style outcrops nudging their way through dense tropical canopy. Over 200 shrines and hermits’ lodgings are sequestered in caves or tucked under overhanging rocks here, with a communal area carved out of a hilltop clearing. Modestly-dressed visitors may follow pilgrims as they carry sacks of rice up the steps towards this point, but it's forbidden to enter the prayer hall or stray off the main paths.
While today's hermitage only dates back to 1954, the site, which was retrieved from the encroaching forest, was originally founded by the first Buddhist king of Sri Lanka in 2 BCE.
It's possible to climb the Sigirya-style rock summit of Belum Gala via ancient steps that may date back to the site's 1 BCE heyday. The hike is accessed via a small track off to the right, around 500m from the car park, just before a large overhanging rock bearing ancient inscriptions and decorated with prayer flags. While not as steep as Sigiriya, this is a much more isolated spot, so those with vertigo may want to be sure of managing the descent before scrambling up to the top, as there's only a rough attempt at a safety rail. Crowned by a dagoba, the sacred summit offers magnificent views of the forest canopy, Helawa Lagoon and the sandbars that straddle Panama beach. The approach must be made without hat, shoes, sunglasses or camera – bring a bag to avoid langurs or macaques making off with them.
Kudumbigala, which is around 15km inland from the B355, is usually visited on a combined taxi or three-wheeler tour from Arugam Bay. Tours generally include the gateway to (but not safari within) Kumana National Park and a trip to the seasonal fishing village of Okanda.
