Countless snack stalls and souvenir shops line the narrow "old street," a long covered lane threading through Jiufen, a mining town so prosperous it became known as "Little Shanghai" in the 1930s. Hugely popular, the street can become very crowded by the afternoon, so plan accordingly. Jishan Street begins beside the 7-Eleven, just in front of the main bus stop.
Grazing is de rigueur here, and as you squeeze and shuffle your way along, vendors will offer you generous samples to try. Look for yùyuán (芋圓; taro balls), yúwán (魚丸; fish balls), cǎozǐ gāo (草仔糕; herbal cakes) and hēitáng gāo (黑糖糕; molasses cake). If the crowds get too much, you can take refuge in a tea house.
Shuqi Street, with its famously steep steps decked out with lanterns, intersects a few hundred meters along Jishan Street. There are a few relics here, including an old Japanese-era theater with its original equipment on display, and timber teahouses with wide balconies overlooking the area.