The most important Inca complex along the Peruvian coast, colossal Incahuasi (free) was once the headquarters of the 10th Inca Emperor Túpac Yupanqui.
The vast site is spread over three sectors along the roadside 8km southwest of Lunahuaná. Backed by rugged mountains and with views both up and down the valley, it's easy to see why the military rulers chose the site. The oldest buildings date from 1438 during the reign of Yupanqui's father, Emperor Pachacuti. The site is far bigger than it first seems and covers both sides of the highway, though the main structures — including a fortress, soldiers' quarters, residential houses, grain stores and ceremonial courtyards — are in the fenced-off section on the east side of the road. Some walls have been reconstructed but the largest complexes on each end of the site contain original walls which are up to 3m high in some places.
Signage is scant, but few Peruvian Inca sites can be explored and simultaneously enjoyed in such solitude.
The site gates are sometimes locked. Ask taxi drivers for the house of the caretaker (cuidador). There are no guides on-site but the caretaker will show you around (speaking Spanish); a small tip is appreciated. A taxi to Incahuasi and back from Lunahuaná including waiting time costs around S25.
