Hauz Khas Village (HKV) is an arty little enclave of cool cafes, live-music venues, tattoo parlors and offbeat fashion right beside the Hauz Khas – great for a lazy afternoon bleeding into the evening. Swing off the brash main drag to seek out the cobbled backstreet that twists around to the northwest, crammed with boutiques selling clothing, handicrafts, contemporary ceramics, handmade furniture and old Bollywood posters.
If you're looking for gorgeous furniture pieces (or just want to gawk), head to Country Collection, which sells handcrafted cabinets, doors and more, including many vintage pieces (they ship worldwide). Music fans won't want to miss Pagal Records, while bookworms should take a peek at Kunzum, a cozy bookshop down an alley near the entrance to the ruins.
Also check out contemporary art galleries in HKV such as Lokayata Art Gallery near the entrance to the village (just look for the giant iguana on the roof), and nearby Creativity Art Gallery, founded in 1999 and focusing on Indian contemporary art.
There are loads of bars and clubs on the main road, many with nightly live music, but the most atmospheric venues overlook Hauz Khas lake and the lush greenery surrounding it. Check out Gypsy Cafe, a shoes-off, cushions-on-the-floor spot where musos gather to jam. You're welcome to pick up an instrument and join them – there's a djembe, guitar, didge and cajon. As the sun sets head to Lake View for folky live music and a pool table or upmarket restaurant-bar-club Hauz Khas Social, with an urban warehouse-style interior of stone walls, high ceilings and amazing views over the ruins, forest and lake.
To reach HKV, take an autorickshaw or taxi to the boom gate – vehicles are restricted in the village. On the way, look for the numerous Lodhi-era tombs scattered along the access road; they're beautifully lit at night. If you come during daylight, you can also take a metro to Green Park and cut through Hauz Khas Deer Park, behind Green Park Market. Follow concrete paths to a well-stocked deer enclosure near the edge of HKV; you'll need your phone GPS to find the way.
