Magnificent in warm, honey-colored stone, Exeter's cathedral is one of Devon’s most impressive ecclesiastical sights and dates largely from the 12th and 13th centuries. Outside, the Great West Front features scores of weather-worn figures. They line a once brightly painted screen and now form England's largest collection of 14th-century sculpture. Inside, the ceiling soars upwards to the longest span of unbroken Gothic vaulting in the world, it's dotted with ornate ceiling bosses in gilt and vibrant colors.
The site has been a religious one since at least the 5th century, but the Normans started the current building in 1114; the towers of today's cathedral date from that period. In 1270 a 90-year remodelling process began, introducing a mix of Early English and Decorated Gothic styles.
The cathedral's exquisitely symmetrical ceiling soars up and along, towards the north transept and the 15th-century Exeter Clock: in keeping with medieval astronomy, the clock shows Earth as a golden ball at the center of the universe with the sun, a fleur-de-lis, traveling around it. Still ticking and whirring, it chimes on the hour.
The huge oak canopy over the Bishop's Throne was carved in 1312. The 1350 minstrels' gallery is decorated with 12 angels playing musical instruments. Cathedral staff will point out the famous sculpture of the lady with two left feet and the tiny St James Chapel, built to repair the one destroyed in the Blitz. Look out for the chapel's unusual carvings: a cat, a mouse and, oddly, a rugby player.
The cathedral offers brass rubbing and activity trails for children. You can also borrow free audio guides, or-book a guided tour (adult/child £10/5). These include trips around the cathedral precincts and cloisters, but the highlight is the Roof Tour, which sees you clambering way up into the towers.
Check online for updates on times of services, and to see if choral evensong, suspended in 2020, has resumed.