For some of the most ravishing coastscapes in Pembrokeshire, make your way to the rugged headland of Dinas Island between Fishguard and Newport. It's not really an island as it's anchored to the mainland by a neck of land, framed on either side by pretty coves – the sandy strand of Pwllgwaelod to the west, and the rocky inlet of Cwm-yr-Eglwys to the east, where you can see the ruin of 12th-century St Brynach's Church, destroyed by the great storm of 1859.
The circuit of the headland (3 miles) is an outstandling little walk, heading up and over cliffs cloaked in gorse, blackthorn and bramble, with precipitous of deeply grooved, largely inaccessible coves. The rumble of the sea is the backbeat on the trail, where there's a chance of spotting seals and dolphins from the 142m-high cliffs at Dinas Head, the northernmost point, and, in late spring and summer, puffins at Needle Rock. A path across the neck between Pwllgwaelod and Cwm-yr-Eglwys allows you to return to your starting point.
Buses between Newport and Fishguard stop at Dinas Cross, which is just over a mile from Pwllgwaelod.
