Chez Lamine Hadj Mustapha

The eastern side of Souq Ableuh is known as 'mechoui alley' for its lunchtime lamb feasts, and the alley's southern entrance is most famous for Hadj Mustapha. The speciality here is the paper-sealed crockpots of tanjia, Morocco's famed ‘bachelor’s stew’. Use bread as your utensil to scoop up the butter-soft meat, sprinkle with cumin and salt, and then chase with olives.

Hadj Mustapha's is also the only stall on 'mechoui alley' that has well-scuffed restaurant seating, set over two floors, and it's the only one open for evening meals. Lunchtime lamb can be bought by the quarter-kilo, tangia comes in half-kilo pots.

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