Hear the calving glaciers of Cerro Tronador as you hike towards it from the small village of Pampa Linda. So named for the sound of its ice crashing (tronador means "thunderer" in Spanish), this extinct volcano straddles the border of Argentina and Chile, and is the highest peak in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi at 3554m – truly majestic.
Paso de las Nubes
The "Cloud’s Pass" is a 26km trail that can be done over two days with an overnight in Refugio Agostino Rocca (refugioagostinorocca.com), where Tronador looms just beyond the hut’s deck. The trail from Pampa Linda winds through forests, across streams and suspension bridges. You’ll hear the ice falling from Tronador long before you see the mountain itself. Book your campground or bed at the refugio prior to the day you begin on its website. You can return via the same route to Pampa Linda, or hike down to Lago Frías the next day to catch the boat to Puerto Blest and then Puerto Pañuelo in Bariloche. Boat tickets can be bought prior at the Turisur office in Bariloche. Plan to be at the dock well before the boat arrives, as there's only one departure a day.
Laguna Ilón
While most of the beaches of Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi are rocky, Laguna Ilón is an anomaly – a sandy beach alongside glittering waters. From Pampa Linda, the out-and-back trail to the lagoon is 8km one-way, and an additional 4km should you choose to go to the Mirador del Doctor, a lookout above Lago Frey with 360-degree views. This hike can be done in a day, but if you want to go to the lookout, book a bed or camping space at Refugio Laguna Ilón prior to hiking. Pack warmly if you do. Even in summer, this refugio can be cold as it's not a building but a grouping of geodesic domes.
How to See Cerro Tronador
Climbing Tronador requires technical expertise, but you don’t need to train to see it up close. From Pampa Linda, drive or hike the 6km to Ventisquero Negro (a black glacier) at the base of Tronador. For more of a challenge, hike the moderate 14.6km trail from Pampa Linda to Refugio Otto Meiling to get an even more impressive view of Tronador and walk to the Castaño Overa, one of the mountain’s seven glaciers. Guided groups to the summit leave from this refugio, but you should arrange with a company such as Backcountry Cooperative (backcountrycooperative.com), prior to hiking. Note that of Tronador’s three peaks: the Chilean one, the Argentine one and the shared peak, most guided trips in Argentina will only take you to the Argentine peak.
Horseback Riding
Horseback riding expeditions in Pampa Linda range from easy one-hour treks through the Valle de los Vuriloches to more technical day- or week-long rides to Tronador’s refugios and glaciers. Hostería Pampa Linda, Hotel Tronador and Albergue Pampa Linda can all arrange horseback riding excursions. Prior experience is recommended for longer rides.
Bus or Self-Drive
No public transportation goes to Pampa Linda. You can reach it by booking a minibus from Bariloche with one of the companies – Travel Light Turismo (travelighturismo.com) or Transitando Lo Natural (transitandolonatural.com.ar) – that operate a once-daily service there in spring and summer. It’s also possible to rent a car and drive yourself, though you must plan your trip around the strict traffic-flow times between Pampa Linda and Los Rápidos. Full-day private tours hitting multiple sites in Pampa Linda can also be booked from Bariloche.
Getting Into Chile
Hike into Chile from Pampa Linda on the Refugio Viejo Tronador trail via Paso de los Vuriloches. Get your passport stamped with the Argentine border patrol office at the Pampa Linda ranger station. The Chilean border patrol will be in the marsh after the pass. Do not bring fruit or cheese with you, as Chile forbids these items – the guards will confiscate them if you do.
