At the northwestern end of Krasnaya pl, standing out against the background of the grassy remains of the ancient town walls, is one of the oldest buildings in Russia: this brilliant-white limestone church with a single sea-green dome, was built from 1152 to 1157 for Prince Yury Dolgoruky and his court (and restored in 2015). The interior is cool and hushed thanks to the 1.5m-thick walls. Inside is a 19th-century marble iconostasis; sadly, the original 12th-century frescoes have not survived.

