Locals fill their own bottles (€1.5 to €3 per liter) from the vast, 18th-century vats at this delightfully old-school winery. Fashioned from olive wood and bound by sturdy rings of oak, these grand old barrels were a standard feature of cellars and mansions across much of this part of the island. They also bottle extra-virgin olive oil and hold "micro-theater" and other cultural events in the evocative space, heady with vinous fumes.

