It's a 60km drive through the Reserva de la Biosfera Calakmul to the ruins of Calakmul. Thousands of structures remain from the city's heyday (250 CE to 900 CE), many excavated and open for exploration, including three pyramids that tower above the treetops. Iridescent ocellated turkeys wander the grounds; also look out for coatis, agoutis, spider monkeys and many other species of bird.
Gran Acrópolis
This is a vast, labyrinthine residential zone and administrative center, containing 20 courtyards and plazas, in addition to pyramids, temples, ball courts and other structures. You can make a loop around the inside of this complex, starting with Estructura XX.
Note the Ball Court at the center and the stellae in front of Estructura XV. The highlight is the four-tiered Estructura XIII at the northern end (and views from the top).
Exit by Estructura XIV and follow the path to the Gran Plaza.
Gran Plaza
The Gran Plaza was the heart of the city. This complex contains five prominent structures, as well as stelae and altars. The first building on the left, at the northern end, is Estructura VII, where archaeologists found the most famous jade mask (now on display in Campeche city). Five stelae and one altar are at its base, with well-preserved hieroglyphs on the side. Climb to the top for views of Estructuras I and II (and monkeys in the late afternoon).
Estructura II
At the southern end of the Gran Plaza, Estructura II is a stunner. With 140m-long sides and a nearly 2-hectare footprint, this pyramid is (by some estimates) the largest and tallest known Maya structure. Peek into excavated rooms and see some partially restored carvings on the way up the right side.
When you think you've reached the top…you have not. Go around the side to continue climbing to reach the real apex. From here, 45m above the forest floor, you'll have magnificent views of Estructura I to the southeast and Estructura VII to the north – as well as jungle canopy as far as you can see.
Estructura I
Calakmul is a Maya word meaning "two adjacent mounds," referring to the two massive unexcavated pyramids that dominated the site when it was rediscovered in 1931. At 40m, Estructura I is Calakmul's second great pyramid. You've seen it from afar and now you can climb it! (It might seem anticlimactic after Estructura II, but the steep climb pays off handsomely with top-of-the-world views.) Also check out the three ceremonial altars at the base of the pyramid.
