In summer, young men leap from the parapet of Stari Most in a tradition dating back centuries, plummeting more than 20m into the freezing cold Neretva. It's a hilarious spectacle, involving much stretching, preening and posing in speedos and cajoling the crowd for donations. Divers won't leap until 50KM has been collected (in winter it's double).

If you want to experience one of Bosnia's ultimate adrenaline rushes for yourself, you'll first need to pay for training dives from a much lower perch at the riverside downstream. If you prove capable you can then join the club and test your mettle with the real thing. You'll get a certificate to prove your achievement. Don't underestimate the dangers – diving badly can prove fatal. But if you love it, your life membership means you can subsequently dive as often as you like.