USA

Getting around

Boat

There is no river or canal public transportation system in the USA, but there are many smaller, often state-run, coastal ferry services, which provide efficient, scenic links to the many islands off the US coasts. Most larger ferries will transport private cars, motor­cycles and bicycles. For details, see the regional chapters. The most spectacular coastal ferry runs are on the south coast of Alaska and along the Inside Passage. The Great Lakes have a number of islands that can be visited only by boat, such as Mackinac Island, MI; the Apostle Islands, off Wisconsin; and the remote Isle Royale National Park, MN. Or check out Majestic America Line (800-434-1232; www.majesticamericaline.com) : it offers week-long boat tours of the Mississippi and Ohio River systems, of the Columbia and Snake Rivers, and of Alaska’s Inside Passage.

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Bus & tram

Bus

To save money, travel by bus, particularly between major towns and cities. Gotta-go middle-class Americans prefer to fly or drive, but buses let you see the countryside and meet folks along the way. As a rule, buses are reliable, clean and comfortable, with air-conditioning, reclining seats, onboard lavatories and no smoking permitted.

Greyhound (for reservations 800-231-2222, for customer service 214-849-8966; www.greyhound.com) is the major long-distance bus company, with routes throughout the USA and Canada. To improve efficiency and profitability, Greyhound has recently stopped service to many small towns; routes generally trace major highways and stop at larger population centers. To reach country towns on rural roads, you may need to transfer to local or county bus systems; Greyhound usually has their contact information.

Competing with Greyhound are the 50-plus franchises of Trailways (703-691-3052; www.trailways.com). Trailways may not be as useful as Greyhound for long trips, but fares are competitive. A few regional Trailways bus companies:

Atlantic Coast Trailways (800-548-8584; www.atlanticcoasttrailways.com) On the Atlantic Coast.

Capitol Trailways (800-333-8444; www.capitoltrailways.com) In the northeast.

Pacific Coachways Trailways (714-892-5000; www.pacificcoachways.com) On the Pacific Coast.

Most baggage has to be checked in; label it loudly and clearly to avoid it getting lost. Larger items, including skis and bicycles, can be transported, but there may be an extra charge. Call to check.

The frequency of bus services varies widely, depending entirely on the route. Despite the elimination of many tiny destinations, nonexpress Greyhound buses still stop every 50 to 100 miles to pick up passengers, and long-distance buses stop for meal breaks and driver changes.

Many bus stations are clean and safe, but some are in dodgy areas; if you arrive in the evening, spend the money on a taxi. Some towns have just a flag stop. If you are boarding at one of these, pay the driver with exact change.

Costs

Substantial ticket discounts can be had if you purchase seven days in advance, and special promotional fares are regularly offered. If you’re traveling with a friend, ask about Greyhound’s companion fares, where the second traveler gets 50% off with a three-day advance purchase.

As for other discounts: tickets for children ages two to 11 get 40% off; people over 62 can get a 5% discount; a companion for a disabled passenger gets 50% off; and students who purchase the Student Advantage Discount Card ($20) will get 15% off most routes.

Here are some samples of standard (non-seven-day-advance) Greyhound fares: New York to San Francisco ($185, three days); Los Angeles to San Francisco ($45, eight hours); Boston to Philadelphia ($55, eight hours); New York to Miami ($125, 32 hours).

Bus

Most cities and larger towns have dependable local bus systems, though they are often designed for commuters and provide limited service in the evening and on weekends. Costs range from free to $1 to $2 per ride.

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Car & motorcycle

The American love of the auto runs so deep it often verges on the pathological. And it will abide for at least one practical reason: the continent is too damn big. Public transportation can’t cover it. For maximum flexibility and convenience, and to explore rural America and its wide-open spaces, you have to have a car. Independence costs you, though, as rental rates and gas prices can eat a good chunk of a travel budget. Only for stays in large cities can you easily dispense with an auto.

Drive-away cars

‘Drive-away cars’ refers to the business of driving cars across the country for people who are moving or otherwise can’t transport their cars themselves. For flexible travelers, they can be a dream come true: you can cover the long distances between A and B for the price of gas. Timing and availability are key.

To be a driver you must be at least 23 years old with a valid driver’s license (non-US citizens should have an International Driving Permit); you’ll also need to provide a $300 to $400 cash deposit (which is refunded upon safe delivery of the car), sometimes a printout of your driving record, a major credit card and/or three forms of identification (or a passport). The auto transport company provides insurance; you pay for gas. The stipulation is that you must deliver the car to its destination within a specified time and mileage, which usually requires that you drive about six hours a day along the shortest route. Availability depends on demand. Coast-to-coast routes at holiday times are the easiest to arrange.

Two of the larger drive-away companies are Auto Driveaway (323-666-6100; www.autodriveawayla.com) and Auto Driveaway Co (800-346-2277; www.autodriveaway.com).

Insurance

Don’t put the key into the ignition if you don’t have insurance. You risk financial ruin if there’s an accident and you don’t have any. If you already have auto insurance (even overseas), or if you buy travel insurance, make sure that the policy has adequate liability coverage for a rental car where you will be driving; it probably does, but most states specify a minimum level of coverage.

Rental car companies will provide liability insurance, but most charge extra. Always ask. Rental companies almost never include collision damage insurance for the vehicle. Instead, they offer an optional Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) or Loss Damage Waiver (LDW), usually with an initial deductible cost of $100 to $500. For an extra premium, you can usually get this deductible covered as well. However, most credit cards now offer collision damage coverage for rental cars if you rent for 15 days or less and charge the total rental to your card. This is a good way to avoid paying extra fees to the rental company, but note that if there’s an accident, you sometimes must pay the rental car company first and then seek reimbursement from the credit card company. Check your credit card policy. Paying extra for some or all of this insurance increases the cost of a rental car by as much as $10 to $30 a day.

Purchase

Buying a car is usually much more hassle than it’s worth, particularly for foreign visitors and trips under four months. Foreigners will have the easiest time arranging this if they have stateside friends or relatives who can provide a fixed address for registration, licensing and insurance, or by working with one of the companies below.

To find a new or used auto, check newspapers and visit dealers. To evaluate prices, check the Kelley Blue Book (www.kbb.com); also hire an independent auto mechanic to inspect the car before you buy. Once purchased, the car’s transfer of ownership papers must be registered with the state’s Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) within 10 days; you’ll need the bill of sale, the title (or ‘pink slip’) and proof of insurance. Some states also require a ‘smog certificate.’ This is the seller’s responsibility; don’t buy a car without a certificate. A dealer will submit the paperwork to the DMV for you.

For foreigners, getting independent liability insurance is the toughest part; it is difficult to virtually impossible to arrange without a US driver’s license. A car dealer or AAA may be able to suggest an insurer who will do this. Even with a local license, insurance can be expensive and difficult to obtain if you don’t have evidence of a good driving record. Bring copies of your home auto insurance policy if it helps establish that you are a good risk. All drivers under 25 will have problems getting insurance.

Finally, selling a car can become a desperate business. Selling to dealers gets you the worst price but involves a minimum of paperwork. Otherwise, fellow travelers and college students are the best bets – but be sure the DMV is properly notified about the sale, or you may be on the hook for someone else’s traffic tickets.

Based in Seattle, WA, Auto Tour USA (206-999-4686; www.autotourusa.com) specializes in helping foreign US visitors purchase, license and insure a car. For US citizens, Adventures on Wheels (800-943-3579; www.adventuresonwheels.com) offers a six-month buy-back program: you buy one of their cars, they register and insure it; when your trip’s done, they buy it back for a pre-established price.

Rental

Car rental is a very competitive business in the USA. Most rental companies require that you have a major credit card, that you be at least 25 years old and that you have a valid driver’s license (your home license will do). Alamo, Thrifty, Enterprise and Rent-A-Wreck may rent to drivers between the ages of 21 and 24 for an additional charge. Those under 21 are usually not permitted to rent at all.

Good independent agencies are listed in this guide, in the local Yellow Pages and by Car Rental Express (www.carrentalexpress.com), which rates and compares independent agencies in US cities; it’s particularly useful for searching out cheaper long-term rentals.

Here are the major national companies:

Alamo (800-462-5266; www.alamo.com)

Avis (800-331-1212; www.avis.com)

Budget (800-527-0700; www.budget.com)

Dollar (800-800-4000; www.dollar.com)

Enterprise (800-261-7331; www.enterprise.com)

Hertz (800-654-3131; www.hertz.com)

National (800-227-7368; www.nationalcar.com)

Rent-a-Wreck (800-944-7501; ­www.rent-a-wreck.com)

Thrifty (800-847-4389; www.thrifty.com)

Companies specializing in RV or camper rentals include:

Adventures on Wheels (800-943-3579; www.adventuresonwheels.com)

Cruise America (800-671-8042; www.cruiseamerica.com)

Happy Travel Camper Rental & Sales (800-370-1262; www.camperusa.com)

Car-rental prices can vary wildly; as when buying plane tickets, shop around, checking every angle and several websites. Airport locations may have cheaper rates but higher fees; city-center offices may do pick-ups and drop-offs; and adjusting the days of your rental can completely change the rate. Weekend and weekly rates are usually cheaper. On average, the daily rate for a small car ranges from $35 to $50, while weekly rates are $175 to $250. If you belong to an auto club or a frequent-flier program, you may get a discount (or earn frequent-flier miles), so ask. Or, see about arranging a cheaper fly-drive package before you travel. No matter what, advance reservations are always recommended.

Some other things to keep in mind: most national agencies make ‘unlimited mileage’ standard on all cars, but independents might charge a few dollars extra for this; limited mileage plans rarely work out unless you aren’t going far. Some rental companies let you pay for your last tank of gas upfront; this is almost never a good deal. Tax on car rentals varies by state and agency location; always ask for the total cost with tax. Most agencies charge more if you pick the car up in one place and drop it off in another (they add a ‘drop off’ charge); only nationals even offer this option. Be careful about adding extra days or turning in a car early; extra days may be charged at a premium rate, and an early return may jeopardize the low weekly or monthly deal you originally arranged.

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Train

Amtrak (800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) has an extensive rail system throughout the USA, with Amtrak Thruway buses providing convenient connections to and from the rail network to some smaller centers and national parks. Compared with other modes of travel, trains are rarely the quickest, cheapest or most convenient option, but they can be close on all counts, and they turn the journey into a relaxing, social and scenic experience.

Amtrak has several long-distance lines traversing the nation east to west, and even more running from north to south, and in total these connect all of America’s biggest cities and many of its smaller ones. Long-distance services (on named trains) run daily on most routes, but some run only three to five days per week. See Amtrak’s website for detailed route maps.

Amtrak’s commuter trains provide fast and more frequent services on shorter routes, especially along the northeast corridor from Boston to Washington, DC. High-speed Acela trains on these routes are the fastest and most expensive. Other commuter rail lines serve the Lake Michigan shore near Chicago, the main cities on the California coast and the Miami area. Many are included in an Amtrak rail pass.

Classes & costs

Fares vary according to type of train and seating; on long-distance lines, you can travel in coach seats, business class, or 1st class, which includes all sleeping compartments. Sleeping cars include simple bunks (called ‘Roomettes’), bedrooms with private facilities and suites sleeping four with two bathrooms. Sleeping car rates include meals in the dining car, which offers everyone sit-down meal service (pricey if not included). Commuter lines offer only business or 1st-class seating; food service, when it exists, consists of sandwich and snack bars. Bringing your own food is allowed, and recommended, on all trains.

Various one-way, round-trip and touring fares are available, with discounts of 15% for seniors age 62 and over and for students (with a ‘Student Advantage’ card, $20, or with an International Student Identity Card), and 50% discounts for children ages two to 15. Fares are generally lower on all tickets from early January to mid-June and from late August to mid-December. Web-only ‘Weekly Specials’ offer deep discounts on certain undersold routes. To get many standard discounts, you need to reserve three days ahead.

Generally, the earlier you book, the lower the price. If you want to take an Acela or Metroliner train, avoid peak commuter times and aim for weekends.

Amtrak offers vacation packages that include rental cars, hotels, tours and attractions; call 800-268-7252 for details. Air-Rail packages offer train travel in one direction and a plane trip going the other way.

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Travel documents

Reservations

Tickets for some Trailways and other buses can only be purchased immediately prior to departure. Greyhound bus tickets can be bought over the phone or on the internet. If you purchase 10 days in advance with a major US credit card, tickets will be mailed to you. International credit cards are accepted when buying in person at the terminal, or online in advance for Will Call tickets, where you pick the tickets up at the terminal (bring ID). Greyhound terminals also accept traveler’s checks and cash.

On Greyhound, a prepurchased ticket does not reserve or guarantee a seat on a bus. All seating is first-come, first-served. Greyhound recommends arriving an hour before departure to get a seat.

Reservations

Reservations can be made any time from 11 months in advance to the day of departure. Space on most trains is limited, and certain routes can be crowded, so it’s a good idea to reserve as far in advance as you can. This also gives you the best chance of fare discounts.

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Tours

Companies offer all kinds of tours in the USA; most focus on regions or cities.

Recommended tour companies:

Backroads (510-527-1555, 800-462-2848; www.backroads.com; 801 Cedar St, Berkeley, CA 94710) Primarily emphasizing bicycle tours, Backroads also creates a range of active, multisport trips for all abilities and budgets.

Gray Line (800-826-0202; www.grayline.com) For those short on time, Gray Line offers a comprehensive range of standard tours.

Green Tortoise (800-867-8647; www.greentortoise.com) Offering budget adventures for independent travelers, Green Tortoise is famous for its sleeping-bunk buses and camaraderie. Most trips leave from San Francisco, traipsing through the West and across the country.

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Local transport

Subway

Some cities have underground subways or elevated metropolitan rail systems, which provide the best local transport. The largest systems are in New York, Washington, DC, Chicago and the San Francisco Bay Area. Other cities have small, one- or two-line rail systems that mainly serve downtown.

Taxi

Taxis are metered, with charges from $1 or $2 to start, plus at least $1.20 per mile. They charge extra for handling baggage, and drivers expect a 10% to 15% tip. Taxis cruise the busiest areas in large cities, but if you’re anywhere else, it’s easiest to call and order one.

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Air

When time is tight, book a flight. The domestic air system is extensive and reliable, with dozens of competing airlines, hundreds of airports and thousands of flights daily. Flying is usually more expensive than traveling by bus, train or car, but it’s the way to go when your destination is the destination. All the advice for buying an international airline ticket applies to domestic flights as well.

Main ‘hub’ airports include all of the international gateways plus a number of other large cities. Most cities and towns have a local or county airport, but you usually have to travel via a hub airport to reach them.

If you need to park your car, www.parkingaccess.com offers information, reservations and discounts on parking at most major airports.

Airlines in the USA

Domestic airlines have mostly rebounded since September 11, 2001. Delta, Northwest, United and US Airways have each entered and emerged from bankruptcy still flying, though mergers and downsizing have had an impact on traveler experiences. For instance, free meal service has often been replaced with for-purchase sandwiches, and thin staffs mean that any disruptions (say, from a storm) can strand flights for hours or even days.

Overall, air travel in the USA is very safe (much safer than America’s highways); for comprehensive details by carrier, check out Airsafe.com (www.airsafe.com), which also has good advice on current airport security procedures.

The main domestic carriers:

AirTran (800-247-8726; www.airtranairways.com) Atlanta-based airline primarily serves Midwest and eastern US.

Alaska Airlines (800-252-7522; www.alaskaair.com) Serves Alaska and western US, with flights to East Coast cities.

American Airlines (800-433-7300; www.aa.com) Nationwide service.

ATA Airlines (800-435-9282; www.ata.com) Connects major US cities and Hawaii; shares routes with Southwest.

Continental Airlines (800-523-3273; www.continental.com) Nationwide service.

Delta Air Lines (800-221-1212; www.delta.com) Nationwide service.

Frontier Airlines (800-432-1359; www.frontierairlines.com) Denver-based airline with nationwide service, including Alaska and Mexico.

Hawaiian Airlines (800-367-5320; www.hawaiianair.com) Serves Hawaiian Islands and West Coast cities.

JetBlue (800-538-2583; www.jetblue.com) Nonstop connections between East and West Coast cities and the Caribbean.

Midwest Express (800-452-2022; www2.midwestexpress.com) Milwaukee-based carrier serves major US cities.

Northwest Airlines (800-225-2525; www.nwa.com) Nationwide service, including Alaska and Hawaii.

Southwest Airlines (800-435-9792; www.iflyswa.com) Service across continental USA.

Spirit Airlines (800-772-7117; www.spiritair.com) Serves eastern seaboard, Florida and Caribbean.

Ted (800-225-5833; www.flyted.com) United’s low-cost service connects major cities nationwide, including Los Angeles, Chicago, Washington DC, Las Vegas and Miami.

United Airlines (800-864-8331; www.united.com) Nationwide service, including Alaska and Hawaii.

US Airways (800-428-4322; www.usairways.com) Primarily serves eastern United States, Midwest and the Caribbean.

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Bicycle

Some cities are much more amenable to bi­cycles than others, but generally, bicycle rentals are everywhere (and listed throughout this guide), most towns have at least a few dedicated bike lanes and paths, and bikes can usually be carried on public transportation.

Bicycle

Regional bicycle touring is very popular; it means coasting winding backroads (since bicycles are not permitted on freeways), and calculating progress in miles per day, not miles per hour. Cyclists must follow the same rules of the road as automobiles, but don’t expect drivers to respect the right of way of cyclists. Better World Club (866-238-1137; www.betterworldclub.com) offers a bicycle roadside assistance program.

For advice, and lists of local bike clubs and repair shops, check the website of the League of American Bicyclists (LAB;202-822-1333; www.bikeleague.org; 1612 K St NW, Suite 800, Washington, DC 20006). If you’re bringing your own bike to the USA, visit the International Bicycle Fund (www.ibike.org), which lists bike regulations by airline and has lots of advice. In the past, most international and domestic airlines have carried bikes as checked baggage without charge when they’re in a box. However, recently, many have changed their regulations and imposed or increased fees (typically $50 to $100, but sometimes higher). Amtrak trains and Greyhound buses will transport bikes within the USA, sometimes charging extra.

Also, it’s not hard to buy a bike once you’re here and resell it before you leave. Every city and town has bike shops; if you prefer a cheaper, used bicycle, try flea markets, garage sales and the notice boards at hostels and colleges. These are also the best places to sell your bike, though stores selling used bikes may also buy from you. If you’re relaxed about price, selling a bike is a snap.

Long-term bike rentals are also easy to find; recommended rental places are listed throughout this guide. Rates run from $100 per week and up, and a credit card authorization for several hundred dollars is usually necessary as a security deposit.

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