Things to do in Sweden
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Vasamuseet
The mighty warship Vasa, 69m long, 160ft tall and pride of the Swedish crown, set off on her maiden voyage on 10 August 1628. Within minutes, she and her 100-member crew capsized and sank tragicomically to the bottom of Saltsjön. Painstakingly raised in 1961, the ship and its incredible wooden sculptures were re- assembled like a giant 14,000-piece jigsaw and housed in an amazing purpose-built space. Salvaged objects from the ship, including shoes, cannonballs and pillboxes, provide a vivid glimpse into the lives of 17th-century sailors, but none more so than the forensically reconstructed faces of the ill-fated passengers. Guided tours in English run hourly from 9.30am…
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Liseberg Funpark
The Liseberg fun park is dominated by its futuristic spaceportlike tower. The ride to the top, some 83m above the ground, climaxes in a spinning dance and a breathtaking view of the city. The other amusements and rides seem tame by comparison but there's no lack of variety. You can buy a pass that allows you to ride the attractions all day. There are often summer shows and concerts staged here.
Opening hours are complex but the season generally runs from late April to early October (and also in the weeks leading up to Christmas) - check the website. Tram No 5 takes you there.
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Abyssinia
Forget what your mother said and eat with your hands at this down-to-earth gem, which serves up authentic, award-winning Ethiopian grub in Technicolor mesobs (traditional woven baskets). The multi-flavoured Abyssinia Special is unmissable (carnivorous, vegetarian or vegan option), as is the heavenly Ethiopian coffee – made to a secret recipe you’ll never know, no matter how sweetly you ask.
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Saluhallen
A mouth-watering market hall, it peddles reasonably priced grub, from fresh fish and piping-hot pasta to Thai, kebabs and croissants.
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Falu Kopparbergsgruva
Falun's copper mine, Falu Kopparbergsgruva was the world's most important by the 17th century and drove many of Sweden's international aspirations during that period. Today it's on Unesco's World Heritage List and makes for a fascinating day out.
Tradition says that a goat called Kåre first drew attention to the copper reserves, when he rolled in the earth and pranced back to the village with red horns. The first historical mention is in a document from 1288, when the Bishop of Västerås bought shares in the company. As a by-product, the mine produced the red paint that became a characteristic of Swedish houses and Falu Red is still well-used today. The mine finally closed…
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Carl Larsson-Gården
Whatever you do, don’t miss Carl Larsson-gården, home of artist Carl Larsson and his wife, Karin, in the picturesque village of Sundborn. After the couple’s deaths, their early-20th-century home was preserved in its entirety by their children, but it’s no gloomy memorial. Lilla Hyttnäs is a work of art, full of brightness, humour and love. Superb colour schemes and furniture fill the house: Carl’s portraits of his wife and children are everywhere, and Karin’s tapestries and embroidery reveal she was as skilled an artist as her husband. Even today, the modern styles throughout the house (especially the dining room) will inspire interior decorators, and the way the family…
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Slottet
The magnificent Slottet now serves as the county governor’s headquarters. While the castle was originally constructed in the late 13th century, most of what you see today is from 300 years later. The outside is far more dramatic than the interior (where the castle’s conference business is all too evident). Parts of the interior are open for exhibits, but to really explore you’ll need to take a tour; there’s a historical one at 4.30pm (in Swedish or English, depending on numbers) or ‘Secrets of the Vasa Fortress’ at 2.30pm (in English), which is a slightly toe-curling piece of costumed clowning around. Book either one through the tourist office. The northwest tower holds a…
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Junibacken
Junibacken whimsically recreates the fantasy scenes of Astrid Lindgren’s books for children. Catch the flying Story Train over Stockholm, shrink to the size of a sugar cube, and end up at Villekulla cottage where kids can shout, squeal and dress up like Pippi Longstocking. The bookshop is a treasure trove of children’s books, as well as a great place to pick up anything from cheeky Karlsson dolls to cute little art cards with story-book themes.
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Domkyrkan
Lund’s twin-towered Romanesque cathedral, Domkyrkan, is magnificent. Try to pop in at noon or 3pm (1pm and 3pm on Sunday and holidays) when the marvellous astronomical clock strikes up In Dulci Jubilo and the wooden figures at the top whirr into action. Within the crypt, you’ll find Finn, the mythological giant who helped construct the cathedral, and a 16th-century well carved with comical scenes.
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Ski Area
A fun, outdoorsy place to hang out in during the low season, Åre is beautifully situated in a mountain valley, but it gets uncomfortably crowded in winter, thanks to its famed ski area. The place has 45 ski lifts, 100 pistes and 1000 vertical metres of skiable slopes, including a 6.5km downhill run. The skiing season is from November to mid-May, but conditions are best from February, when daylight hours increase.
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Kulturen
Kulturen, opened in 1892, is a huge open-air museum filling two whole blocks. Its 30-odd buildings include everything from the meanest birch-bark hovel to grand 17th-century houses. Permanent displays encompass Lund in the Middle Ages, vintage toys, ceramics, silver and glass (among many others); ask about guided tours in English. The popular outdoor cafe flanks several rune stones.
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Åhléns
Looking better than ever after a revamp, this is the main branch of Sweden’s best-known department store. All the standards are here from books, electronics and homewares to cosmetics and fashion, including the store’s own very wearable label. Basement supermarket Hemköp sells ready-made vegetarian foods, while the 4th floor is home to a dreamy day spa.
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Nordiska Museet
With its flouncy turrets and neo-Swedish Renaissance looks, Isak Gustav Clason’s iconic building is hard to miss. Inside is a collection of all things Swedish, from Sami folklore to eclectic exhibitions of Swedish fashion, shoes, interiors and even table settings. The museum owns the largest collection of paintings by August Strindberg and the audio tours (Skr20) are nothing short of satisfying.
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Café Saturnus
Everyone from yummy mummies to peckish princesses flock here for Gallic-inspired baguettes, pastries and creamy café au lait. While Saturnus’ claim that it was the first to introduce Stockholm to ‘proper’ coffee is hotly contested, there’s little doubt that its kanelbullar (cinnamon bun) is the city’s biggest…and dare we say its best.
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Norrbyskär
The island of Norrbyskär, 40km south of Umeå, is a worthwhile destination. It has an interesting history - a sawmill community was built up here from nothing in less than 10 years, only to disappear just as suddenly 10 years later. There is a museum as well as other attractions; buses run to and from Umeå to Norrbyn, to connect with ferries - inquire at the tourist office for times.
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Royal Palace
The 'new' Royal Palace is one of Stockholm's highlights; it was constructed on the site of the 'old' royal castle, Tre Kronor, which burned down in 1697. The north wing of the castle survived and was incorporated into the new palace, but its medieval designs are now concealed by a baroque exterior.
With 608 rooms, it's the world's largest royal castle still used for its original purpose.
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Pelikan
High ceilings, wood-panelling and no-nonsense waiters in waistcoats set the scene for classic husmanskost (traditional Swedish fare) at this century-old beer hall. The superb menu includes an assortment of herring and cheeses and expertly roasted spare-ribs served with red cabbage and apple purée. Add huge beer glasses and you’re set for an epic toast to Sverige.
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Historiska Museet
Behind the cathedral, Historiska Museet has a large collection of pre–Viking Age finds, including a 7000-year-old skeleton. It’s joined with Domkyrkomuseet, which explores the history of the church in the area; the rooms filled with countless statues of the crucified Christ are supremely creepy.
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Hermitage
All hail herbivorous Hermitage, famed for its cosy laid-back vibe and soulful veggie fare. Everyone from Stockholm students to frazzled tourists comes here for global flavours like spicy Moroccan stews and creamy cottage cheese pancakes. Indecisive types can opt for a bit of everything, served high and mighty on a gut-filling plate.
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Elverket
Best for a lazy weekend brunch, slick and cosy Elverket sits in an old electricity plant, alongside Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern’s more experimental stage. Here, a mix of Capote-styled intellectuals, gossipy girlfriends and designer dads nurse hangovers over Scandi staples, Asian extras and sinfully good chocolate brownies.
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Hermans Trädgårdscafé
The cakes aren’t always brilliant, but the vegetarian buffets here are unvaryingly fab. Get your aura glowing with soul-satisfying lasagne, stuffed vine leaves, crunchy potato wedges and Moroccan-inspired salads served in the barrel-vaulted basement or on the swoon-worthy summer terrace, complete with sea and city views.
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Roxy
Laid-back but never short on chic, Roxy draws an erudite mix of lipstick lesbians, publishing types and Söder-style socialites, all smitten with modern-Med mains and tapas treats (think soy-marinated tuna with mango). Roll in some tango tunes, the odd brusque Spanish waitress, and all that’s missing is Frida Kahlo at the bar.
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Mooncake
Stick a Hong Kong chef behind a wok and watch the crowds roll in. The inventive menu at this elegant Eastern hotspot includes crispy rösti crab and prawn cakes (Skr95) and the delicate drunken Szechuan duck with tamarind-chilli glaze (Skr237). It’s all sublime and complemented by discreet, near-perfect service.
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Solrosen
A 1970s survivor, this laid-back student favourite is a Haga institution (note the photos of passed-on regulars above the counter). Pay tribute over soulful vegetarian dishes and a bountiful salad buffet. For the best value, choose one of the hot dishes on the menu board, which also include the salad buffet in the price.
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Chutney
Left-leaning, boho-inclined Chutney feeds the arty masses on inspired vegetarian and vegan creations like potato pancakes, coconut stews and rich mushroom ravioli. The Skr75 lunch menu (11am to 5pm daily), with its generous helpings and divine homemade breads, is good value. Wash it all down with a glass of organic red.
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