Rarotonga & the Cook Islands

Getting around

There are two ways of getting from island to island around the Cooks (unless you have a yacht) : in the Southern Group islands you can fly with Air Rarotonga or take the inter-island cargo ships; in the Northern Group islands, only Manihiki, Penrhyn and Pukapuka have airstrips - to get to the other Northern Group islands, the only options are the inter-island cargo ships.

Understandably, most people choose to fly with Air Rarotonga for speed and convenience. Flights to the Southern Group islands (Rarotonga, Aitutaki, 'Atiu, Ma'uke, Mangaia and Mitiaro) are regular and reliable. Flights to Manihiki and Penrhyn are scheduled only once a week and bad weather, limited fuel supplies, too little freight or too few bookings can often mean they're cancelled at short notice - the first thing you'll know about it is when you turn up at the airstrip for your flight but your plane doesn't. You'll be stranded till the next plane does turn up, so check that your travel insurance covers unavoidable delays. Flights to Pukapuka operate not on any particular schedule, but only as needed.

Boat

Shipping services have had a colourful history in the Cooks: companies have come and gone, ships have run onto reefs, and fortunes have been made, but more often lost. Despite the increasing use of air services, shipping is still vital to the islands for supplies. Most of the Northern Group islands are only served by ship, and throughout the islands, ships are necessary to bring in commodities and export produce.

The major obstacle for ships in the Cooks is the fact that most of the islands have such terrible harbours. The Northern Group islands' reef passages are generally too narrow or shallow to allow large ships to enter, and on the Southern Group islands (apart from Rarotonga) the passages through the fringing reefs are too small. Ships have to anchor outside the reef and transfer passengers and freight to shore by barge. At some of the islands it's not even possible to anchor offshore, because the ocean is too deep, so freighters have to keep their engines running while loading and unloading.

If you plan to explore the outer islands by ship, you need to be flexible and hardy. Schedules are hard to pinpoint and unlikely to be kept to - weather, breakdowns and unexpected delays can all put a kink in the plans. Just ask any outer islander waiting for supplies to arrive and you'll hear how unreliable the inter-island ships are. It's not unknown for a passenger's one-month stay on one of the Northern Group islands to stretch out to two months or longer - so be prepared.

Bear in mind, too, that these are cargo boats, definitely not luxury cruise liners. The berths are basic, the ships are cramped and the seas are often rough - if you're at all prone to seasickness you'll definitely spend a bit of time hanging your head over the side.

At each island, the ship usually stays just long enough to load and unload cargo. Travellers get the chance to spend a few hours visiting each island before taking off again - or you can jump off and stay for a month (or more) until the next ship. Alternatively you could buy a one-way passage and catch a flight back. Outside of Rarotonga, only the northernmost island of Penrhyn has a wharf; at all the others, you have to go ashore by barge.

Despite the discomforts, travelling by ship through the Cook Islands does have its romantic aspects. This may be one of the last places in the world where you can sleep out on the deck of a South Pacific island freighter, savouring the wide horizon, chatting with your fellow passengers and the captain and crew, watching the moon rise up out of the ocean and the stars above you in the velvety-warm air. Just hold onto that thought when the weather turns rough!

Inter-island shipping companies

Two shipping companies provide inter- island passenger and cargo services for the Cooks; both travel from Rarotonga to all of the populated islands. Both companies are based at Rarotonga's Avatiu Harbour. Both companies offer information, schedules and booking services.

Mataroa Shipping(29018; mataroa@oyster.net.ck) Sometimes travels within the Cooks, but mainly brings freight from New Zealand to Rarotonga and Aitutaki. The office is inside a large building straight ahead as you approach Avatiu Wharf.

Taio Shipping (24905, 24912; taio@oyster.net.ck) The main inter-island shipping company in the Cooks, with regular schedules between all the major outer islands and Rarotonga. The office is near Punanga Nui Market, on your right as you arrive at Avatiu Wharf.

There's only limited cabin space and some ships have no cabins at all. You can bring your own food or pay for it beforehand. Showers and toilets are available to all passengers.

It takes approximately a day for ships to get from Rarotonga to any of the other Southern Group islands. Each island you visit costs NZ$65; the Rarotonga-Mangaia-Ma'uke-Mitiaro-'Atiu-Rarotonga round trip takes about four days (NZ$260). The ships rarely travel to Aitutaki. It takes about 3½ days for ships to get to the Northern Group islands; there's a regular monthly service that does the Rarotonga-Manihiki-Rakahanga-Penrhyn-Rarotonga route and takes about 10 to 12 days (the cost is NZ$700 to NZ$900 return).

The private research vessel Bounty Bay, based on Rarotonga, often runs exploration and eco-trips around many of the more remote islands of the Cooks, including Takutea and Manuae.

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Hitching

If you're going to hitch anywhere in the world, this is probably one of the safest places to do it, although you're as likely to encounter unsafe driving here as anywhere (and seat belts in cars around here are usually jammed down the side of the back seat from lack of use). Many people do choose to hitch in the Cooks; if you've missed your bus or run out of petrol, it's a good last resort. Although it's not really the custom in the Cooks, you're bound to get a lift before too long - and on the outer islands, chances are someone passing by will stop and offer you a lift even if you haven't got your thumb out (they're just nice like that).

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Bus & tram

Bus

The only island that has a bus service is Rarotonga.

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Car & motorcycle

The main form of transport in the Cook Islands, for locals and travellers alike, is the motorbike. Usually small 70cc to 100cc motor scooters, they achieve a good fuel-consumption rate (important when petrol is selling for NZ$2 per litre!) and are much cheaper to freight in from New Zealand than a car. Practically everyone rides one, from teenagers right through to elderly mama, and they're dead easy to ride - but take the time to learn how to control them if you're a novice, as a stint in the Rarotonga Hospital is going to put a real dampener on your stay.

Hire

There are motorbikes to rent on all of the major Southern Group islands (from NZ$20 to NZ$30 per day). Cars (including jeeps and vans) can be rented on Rarotonga, Aitutaki and 'Atiu (upwards of NZ$60 per day). Usually, you have to be 18 years or older to rent a vehicle.

Some of the bikes you'll see around for hire are in a pretty poor state of repair (who needs luxuries like speedometers and reliable brakes?), so make sure the one you're using is up to scratch. Generally the larger rental agencies have better quality bikes. Helmets are a rarity, and almost nobody wears them - not necessarily smart, but that's just the way things are in the Cooks. Small cars and jeeps are also popular rental vehicles on Rarotonga, and there's even a place you can rent three-wheeled 'scootcars' - high on fun, low on personal dignity.

There are loads of places to hire cars, motorbikes and scooters all over Rarotonga and Aitutaki. 'Atiu has rental cars and scooters. Ma'uke and Mitiaro have rental bicycles and motorbikes. Mangaia has a few motorcycles for rent.

Insurance

Standard third-party insurance is usually included in the rental cost, but that doesn't often cover you for damage to your own vehicle. You can take out extra insurance and bring down the excess by paying a few more dollars a day on top of the standard charge.

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Tours

There are loads of interesting tours you can take in the Cooks. On Rarotonga the circle- island tours provide a good introduction to the island and its history, culture, people and customs. Circle-island tours are also offered on Aitutaki, 'Atiu, Ma'uke and Mangaia. More specialised tours (such as cave tours) are mentioned in the individual island chapters. Be aware that you're unlikely to be mollycoddled in quite the same way as on similar tours in Europe and the US (which is as good a reason as any to take them).

Day tours are available from Rarotonga to Aitutaki. Also, travel agents on Rarotonga can organise one-island or multi-island package tours.

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Air

Airlines in the cook islands

Air Rarotonga is the only commercial inter-island air service in the Cooks. The Air Rarotonga office (22888; www.airraro.com) is at the Rarotonga international airport, where you can make bookings and buy tickets. The administration office (22890) is off to one side.

Flights go several times a day between Rarotonga and Aitutaki, several times a week between Rarotonga and the other Southern Group islands, and only once a week between Rarotonga and the Northern Group islands of Manihiki and Penrhyn. There are no flights on Sunday on any of Air Rarotonga's routes.

The fares you'll pay depend on when you make your booking - in general the earlier you book, the cheaper the fare will cost you. If you book late certain restrictions may apply to your ticket, such as not being able to make date changes - so make sure you ask at the time of booking.

Package deals

All the Rarotonga-based travel agents offer package tours to the Southern Group islands, which include airfare plus accommodation. You can visit just one island this way, or several; a popular combination is to visit Aitutaki and 'Atiu together, while more adventurous souls could tack on the other Southern Group islands too. If you're travelling to the Northern Group islands, you'll need to make a booking through a travel agent.

If you book these packages on Rarotonga, they work out even cheaper than if you do the booking yourself - but you'll normally be locked into a pre-arranged schedule, which might not allow you all the time you want on a particular island. You can usually choose from three prices based on whether you want to stay in budget, midrange or top-end accommodation.

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Bicycle

Cycling is a good way to see the islands, especially Rarotonga, as the coast road is generally very flat and you can explore at your own pace. Roads tend to be narrow and when unsealed can be tough going, but traffic is light and motor vehicles generally move pretty slowly, so riding a bicycle is fairly safe.

Hire

Bikes can be hired from all the main rental agencies around Rarotonga for about NZ$10 a day. Some hotels also rent out bikes to guests - on the outer islands you'll probably be stuck with a motor scooter. 'Atiu Villas also rent out bikes.

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