Sights in Papua New Guinea
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Parliament Haus
The impressive Parliament Haus was officially opened in 1984 with Prince Charles on hand. The main building is in the style of a Maprik, or Sepik-style, haus tambaran, while the attached, circular cafeteria building follows Highland design principles. The façade is quite stunning, with a mosaic featuring unmistakably PNG motifs. Photographers with wide-angle lenses will be rewarded with great shots in the late afternoon light.
The cavernous lobby is entered through doors whose handles are stylised kundu drums (an hourglass-shaped drum with lizard skin). Inside, huge Sepik masks share space with several display cases full of fantastic butterflies, including the native…
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National Botanic Gardens
At the northern end of Waigani Dr, just beyond the University of Papua New Guinea, the National Botanic Gardens are an island of calm and beauty in the midst of an otherwise lacklustre city. Don't miss them! There is more than 2km of boardwalk threading under and through the jungle canopy; well-maintained lawns and gardens displaying both local and exotic plant species, and probably the best collection of native and hybrid orchids in PNG.
There are also some excellent wildlife displays, such as tree kangaroos, hornbills, cassowaries, a giant python, and a large aviary that houses parrots and birds of paradise (the only chance most visitors get to see them).
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Sohano Island
You can also take a boat ride to explore the idyllic islands near the southern mouth of the passage and beyond. Good swimming spots are on these islands. The most easily accessible is Sohano Island, a few minutes by boat from Buka. It was the provincial capital from WWII until 1960. It's a beautiful place with lawns and gardens, a Japanese monument, and war relics, steep craggy cliffs and panoramic views over town, the passage and Bougainville Island. There are some colonial-period buildings.
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Mt Lamington
The 1585m peak of Mt Lamington is clearly visible from Popondetta. The mountain still shakes and puffs a little and local residents paid no attention to a slight increase in activity in 1951. However when the mountainside suddenly blew out and a cloud of super-heated gases rushed down, about 3000 people died and 8000 were left homeless. It is estimated the temperature stood near 200°C for about 90 seconds, and the gas cloud rolled down at over 300km/h.
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Smoked Bodies
The best place to view a smoked body is at Watama, a village within an easy walk of Menyamya. Ask at the Menyamya provincial authority, which will contact the relevant village elders.
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Australian War Memorial
The recently commissioned Australian War Memorial has a detailed description of the Battle of Milne Bay. There's a service here on 26 August every year, commemorating the beginning of the Battle of Milne Bay.
In 1942, at 23:30 on 25 August the Japanese Imperial Army started invading Milne Bay. In just two landings a few days apart, the Japanese established a 2,400-strong army near Ahioma. Unlike Kokoda, the battle of Milne Bay was not to be a protracted affair; it would be over in just 12 days.
The Japanese fought skirmishes with the Allies and their base suffered early casualties under a fierce RAAF aircraft-led barrage. On the moonlit nights of 26-27 August the Japanese…
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Ok Tedi Mine
The open-cut Ok Tedi mine has been yielding gold and copper from Mt Fubilan, just beyond Tabubil, since 1984. For a time it was the largest gold mine outside South Africa, and if you can persuade Ok Tedi Mining Limited (OTML) to let you visit (having done the mandatory two-hour safety course), the immense size of the operation won't fail to impress.
The logistics are extraordinary: to get the ore to ships off the PNG coast, a copper/gold slurry is sent 140km through a pipeline to Kiunga, where it's loaded on to barges for the 800km trip down the Fly River.
The mine has not been without controversy. In 1984 a tailings dam collapsed allowing 80,000 tons of pollution per day…
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Haus Tambarans
There are numerous villages around Maprik, many with a striking, forward-leaning haus tambaran, an architectural style echoed in such modern buildings as Parliament House in Port Moresby. The front façade of the Maprik haus tambarans are brightly painted in browns, ochres, whites and blacks and in some cases reach 30m high.
Without your own vehicle getting to the various villages can be problematic. Speak to the owner of the Maprik Wakin Hotel to arrange an impromptu tour. Traditionally haus tambarans were exclusively an initiated-man's domain, but these days the rules are usually bent for Western travellers. Locals usually charge to enter and a photography fee. There…
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Buna and Gona
The villages of Buna and Gona became Japanese bases during WWII and were the scene of some of the most desperate fighting of the war. At Giropa Plantation, on the Buna Rd, a Japanese plaque commemorates the country's dead.
Most of what remains of the bases is covered with overgrowth and a guide is necessary to work out what went on where. Basil Tindeba, from Buna, knows his way around the area pretty well; ask for him at the Oro Guesthouse and try to give a few days' notice. Another recommended guide is Maclaren Hiari MBE, who runs the Kokoda Buna Historical Foundation (tel: 329 7627). He lives two doors east of the Oro Guesthouse. These guys charge for their guiding and…
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cemetery
It's worth poking around the cemetery amid the recently restored headstones for the grave of M Bourgade, one of France's top WWI air aces, who died here of malaria while working as a mission worker.
Later, the island became a government headquarters and base for explorations. Today the district local government headquarters is on the mainland at Bereina and the island has been in serious economic decline since. An airstrip that is more bush than strip and derelict buildings are the only reminders that at one stage Siria village once boasted a fisheries industry, wharfs, a bank and guesthouse.
In 1972 local seventeen-year-old schoolgirl, Susan Karike (now Mrs Huhume),…
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Kwato Island
China Strait and the surrounding islands have a reputation for witchcraft and, despite the influence of missionaries, superstitions linger. Strange lights, ghost ships and sirens (the singing kind) all crop up. Just 3km west of Samarai, Kwato Island was once an educational centre and home to a thriving boat building industry. The remnants of the old machinery lie where they were discarded in the tall grass and today the island can be eerily quiet.
The Reverend Charles Abel and his wife, Beatrice, founded a non-hierarchical church in 1891. Even though they 'belted' the Bible pretty hard, it wasn't until the 1930s that the last of the nearby cannibal tribes was 'saved'.
If…
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Pindaunde Lakes
The climb goes up to the Pindaunde Lakes from the high school and disused airstrip at Kegsugl. The lakes sit at 3500m and the views are incredible. The National Parks Board huts are a four- to five-hour walk from Kegsugl. It is customary to spend at least one night here before tackling the summit the next morning. Some say it's better to spend another day acclimatising and exploring the area before the final push.
From the Pindaunde Lakes, it's a long, hard walk to the summit - anything from five to eight hours. It can get cold, wet, windy and foggy at the top, so bring warm clothes and a change of socks as your legs will be wet from rain or just brushing past wet plants.…
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Rainforest Habitat
Visiting the Rainforest Habitat is like stepping into a microcosm of PNG's most exotic flora and fauna. It comprises about 3000 sq metres of reconstructed rainforest inside a covered shade house. It incorporates a lake, raised walkways and an abundance of plants and birds. Planting began in 1994 when 10,000, mostly native, plants were placed into the habitat. The guesthouse here has bunk beds, shared bathrooms and kitchen, which will appeal to those wanting to be near to nature, and far from everything else. Ring first.
Most people come to see the bird of paradise collection and orchid garden although the real star is 'Argo', the huge and largely inactive saltwater…
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Lake Kutubu
The Lake Kutubu area has one of just five national parks in PNG. South of Mendi, Lake Kutubu has some of the Highlands' most beautiful scenery. According to legend, the lake was formed when a fig tree was cut down by a woman looking for water. The story goes that whatever the tree touched turned to water - hence the lake.
The lake is beautiful, and the surrounding country is home to friendly people living a largely traditional life. Butterflies and birds of paradise are common. You can swim in the lake and visit local villages or walk and appreciate the beauty and peace. Kutubu is the Highlands' second-largest lake, and, at 800m (2600ft) above sea level, PNG's highest…
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Omarakana
Going north from Losuia is 'inland' to the locals. This area has most of the island's roads and villages. Omarakana, about halfway between Losuia and Kaibola, is where the island's paramount chief resides. You'll know you're there by the large, intricate, painted yam house and the couple of cars outside his western-style bungalow built on stilts.
He can often be found sitting on a chair under his house, surrounded by his clansmen. The paramount chief presides over the island's oral traditions and magic and strictly maintains his political and economic power. He also oversees the important yam festival and kula rituals. As a sign of respect, keep your head lower than his…
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Goroka Show
The Goroka Show, is held over the Independence Day weekend (mid-September) at the National Sports Institute. It attracts more singsing groups than Mt Hagen's show and there are also bands and other cultural activities, as well as some elements of an agricultural show. The show is the glamour event on the social calendar for many performers and it is extraordinary how many feathers one person can squeeze onto a headdress.
Performers all receive a payment from the proceeds and you are neither expected nor encouraged to tip individuals. Make accommodation arrangements early as many places (especially top-end hotels) are booked out months in advance. Prices, like a Highland…
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Manta Ray Cleaning Station
Not far west of Doini Island is Gona Bara Bara Island, and just off the northwest shore is a dive site known as the Manta Ray Cleaning Station. Just a few metres below the surface, there is an isolated bommie (a natural spire, covered in coral, rising from the sea floor). Around the bommie giant, graceful mantas (some with wing spans of up to 5m) are cleaned by tiny wrasses; it is one of the best places on earth to see this happening.
Snorkelling is also possible, though high winds make it (and diving) difficult between June and September. Unfortunately only dive charters are visiting here although it may be possible to arrange a snorkelling trip with local boat operators…
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Varirata National Park
Right after the small store at Laloki River Gorge is the turn-off to Varirata National Park which, at 1000 hectares and over 800m high, is the highlight of the Sogeri Rd. It's 8km from the turn-off and you'll find six clearly marked walking trails ranging from 45 minutes to three hours long, and some excellent lookouts back to Port Moresby and the coast. The bird-watching here can be rewarding, with an array of kingfishers and Raggiana birds of paradise as highlights.
It's possible to camp here, but unless you're in a large group, it's potentially unsafe. The best place is on the grass outside the derelict huts. There are pit toilets. Speak to the ranger-in-charge (if you…
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Tami Islands
Tami Islands are an idyllic collection of four coral atolls and every bit the South Sea cliché you could hope for - white sandy beaches, friendly locals, coconut palms and good snorkelling with none of the pesky western intrusions such as electricity, shops, food and reliable transport.
Tami Islanders are renowned carvers and you'll most certainly be shown the famous Tami Island bowls, although it is possible to purchase these on the mainland at Malasiga, a village recently settled by the Islanders. Enquire around Dregerhafen for boat departure times to the islands - market days are best. Unless you charter, plan to stay the night.
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Buka passage
A particular highlight in Buka is the Buka passage, which refers to the channel that separates Buka Island from Bougainville Island. The water runs at about 6 knots when the tide is fast, making deep undulations on the water's surface. Riding in a banana boat in Buka Passage is a buzz. Banana boats congregate near the animated market and the passage is abuzz with these small crafts plying between the town and Kokopau village (opposite Buka on Bougainville Island).
A word of warning: avoid snorkelling in Buka Passage; you could wind up lost at sea because of the current, and the boat traffic on the surface is pretty intense.
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headland
There's a pleasant two-hour walk around the headland, but carry water and sun protection. People in the villages here don't get a lot of tourists or even a lot of local passers-by so be respectful as you enter an area and seek approval before moving on. There's good snorkelling offshore and the beaches are sensational, but ask before stripping down and plunging in.
Another good walk is west along the beach from the airport. After 40 minutes you come to a limestone headland draped with vines - wade around it to the beautiful beach on the other side. There's a rusting Japanese landing barge just offshore.
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Mioko Island
Mioko Island is the best one to visit, with a smattering of sights, including good beaches, two open-pit caves on the island's eastern flank and a coastwatcher's lookout cut into the cliff top nearby on the easternmost point. For many years hundreds of people hid in these caves to avoid being press-ganged by the Japanese.
Nearby, a tiny tunnel runs between the two cliff faces of the island's eastern tip. You can crawl between (it's rough going) for two views of the open sea and sky, and the cruel cliff below you. If you want to snorkel, try the southern coast, but it's only good in calm conditions.
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Ramu River
After Bogia is a series of old coconut plantations, now home to many Manam Island relocation camps. Villagers have cut patches into the plantations to grow their gardens. Eventually the road narrows to a single-lane track and ends at a small, deep tidal river. If you are not up for swimming, hail the villagers on the other side for a lift in their canoe. To walk to the Ramu River mouth either follow the inland footpath through a swamp then onto the beach, or head for the beach directly.
The Ramu is too large to swim, so wave and shout madly to the folks in the fishing camp on the western shore.
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JK McCarthy Museum
JK McCarthy was one of PNG's legendary patrol officers and wrote one of the classic books on New Guinea patrolling - Patrol into Yesterday. The museum is not far from the National Sports Institute, but a long walk from the town centre.
Among the exhibits are pottery, weapons, clothes and musical instruments, and even some grisly jewellery - Anga mourning necklaces of human fingers! 'Peer through the mists of time' courtesy of a fascinating collection of photos - many taken by Mick Leahy when he first reached the area in 1933. There are also WWII relics, including a P-39 Aircobra.
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Centennial Hill
In 1885 Catholic missionaries, who were some of the first European visitors to reach the Papuan coast, held PNG's first mass here on the 4th July. Today the location, Centennial Hill, boasts a small memorial decorated with mosaics and a painted bronze (yes - someone painted over the bronze) statue. They also brought with them 14 Filipino lay missionaries - the first Philippine visitors to PNG - to teach catechism and generally help evangelize the country.
Besides Catholicism, the Filipinos also help account for the Hispanic surnames that you may encounter.
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