Activities in Papua New Guinea
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PNG High Country Tours
Samuel Lulu runs tours and treks around the jungles and caves of the Eastern Highlands and out towards Simbu. He offers village accommodation in the Namasaro Unggai district west of Goroka.
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Mt Hagen Show
It's not as big as the Goroka Show, but the Mt Hagen Show is definitely a must-see. It's held annually, on the third weekend of August. The cheap 'general admission' won't allow you access to the singsing groups until much later, and then, only from the surrounding banks.
The two-day pass allows you to arrive early and see the groups dressing and donning their feathered headdresses. Vigorous impromptu performances at this time can be more powerful, even ribald, compared to the formal stuff dished up in the arena. Contrary to what you might fear, there's no general bird of paradise slaughter just before show time - the feather headdresses and costumes are extremely…
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Kavieng Surf Club
Calling all surfers! Kavieng has an up-and-coming surf scene (luckily it's still a fairly secret surfing Nirvana), with a good range of reef breaks, both lefts and rights, that are easily accessible. They vary in difficulty, depending on the size and direction of the swell. From November to late April, swells of up to 2.4m are not unheard of. What makes surfing here so unique is the lack of crowds - utter bliss if you come from, say, Bali.
Even if it's growing in popularity, the Kavieng Surf Club ensures that the number of surfers is kept at a sustainable level thanks to a surf quota system. Among the most thrilling spots are Pikinini, Karanas, Nago Island, Edmago Island,…
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Kabaira Dive Rabaul
It's almost too good to be true: Simpson Harbour offers several first-class wreck dives, while the reefs off the western tip of Gazelle Peninsula are totally unspoiled and positively festooned with healthy, hard and soft corals, sponges, gorgonians and a dizzying array of tropical fish: a perfect combination. Run by the capable Stephen Woolcott, Kabaira Dive Rabaul is based at Kabaira Beach Hideaway, a few finstrokes from splendid reefs.
The main drawback is the location; if you're based in Rabaul, you'll have to fork out about A$40 for transfers, or take a PMV (40 minutes). If you're a keen diver, it's best to base yourself at the Kabaira Beach Hideaway. Good snorkelling…
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Surfing
One claim to fame that Vanimo does have is the best surf in PNG, and it's one of the primary reasons why people come to Vanimo. The surf is strictly seasonal, from October through April, when monsoon swells bring waves between 3ft and 6ft. Vanimo and around has excellent point breaks and beach breaks with consistently good surf. There's a local bunch of surfers known as the Lido Surf Club - an informal collective who show visiting surfers around in a banana boat out to the nearby island breaks.
They can even arrange accommodation in local villages. There's no surf-rage in PNG and the scene is just in its infancy. BYO boards.
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Mt Wilhelm
While not technically difficult, this popular climb is hard work. Preparation is important and the dangers should not be underestimated. Climbers in this region have died. Don't try to climb the mountain on your own no matter how fit you are - a guide is essential. The final ascent starts in the black of early morning so that climbers get to see the dawn and both coasts before the clouds roll in.
If the weather is fine, the climb takes three or four days, but frequently the weather causes delays; take a book to read in the huts. There is a charge levied by the local landowner to climb the mountain.
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Baia Sportfishing Lodge
Sportfishing enthusiasts will make a beeline for Baia Sportfishing Lodge, a reputable, high-standard fishing lodge in remote Baia that attracts Ernest Hemingway fans. It's run by Liamo Reef Resort in Kimbe. The numerous river systems are home to the infamous black bass and spot tail bass, and the neighbouring coral reefs are a playpen for reef and pelagic species, including tuna, wahoo, giant trevally, marlin and sailfish among the prime catches.
There's a minimum stay of four nights. Prices include fishing gear, boat and guide, as well as transfers to Hoskins airport (about 4½ hours by boat).
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Cycling
Feel like enjoying the scenery and atmosphere from the saddle instead of a seat in a car or PMV? Cycling is an ecofriendly and cheap way to discover New Ireland's east coast along cycle-friendly Boluminski Hwy. You can choose your own pace and become intimate with local communities. Boluminski Hwy seems to have been purpose-built for cycling, with very little traffic, no pollution, a surfaced road that's perfectly flat, and a number of guesthouses conveniently located along the way.
You can cover the whole stretch in four to five days.
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Trans Niugini Tours
Trans Niugini Tours is one of the main inbound tour companies in PNG, and organises tours and activities across the country. It's well organised, professional and rather expensive. Its packages include meals and activities and guests are ferried to their six eco-lodges by private aircraft and stay in absolute luxury.
The lodges are Tari's Ambua Lodge; the Sepik's Karawari Lodge and its boat the Sepik Spirit; Malolo Plantation Lodge north of Madang; Bensbach Wildlife Lodge in the Western Province; and Mt Hagen's very own Rondon Ridge.
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diving
Even if you don't climb the hill, you simply must go snorkelling or diving around the rotting piers of the Samarai Island Wharf, which has become a world-famous muck-diving site. The marine life is incredible and as you drift carefully between the piers you'll be surrounded by schools of brightly coloured fish. Below them, pipefish and various odd nudibranchs can be seen.
The bottom is also littered with the detritus of history, but don't be tempted to 'rescue' anything more than the rubbish. Be sure to bring a snorkel and mask.
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trekking
There is a network of tracks in the area ideal for trekking. Many follow the ria around the coast. Other tracks can be quite difficult; you must be fit. Tufi Dive Resort can arrange a guide and village stays, or you could take your chances and ask around yourself. The villages and the resort can arrange boats to pick you up at various locations at the end of your walk.
Orchids, birds and butterflies can also been seen in the surrounding jungles and again, Tufi Dive Resort can arrange guides to view these.
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Arawa to Buin
The Arawa-Buin section (about three hours by vehicle) was still a bit tricky when we visited, due to the odd checkpoint controlled by so-called BRA diehards (locals prefer to call them raskols) south of Aropa. They sometimes turn foreigners back or ask them for whatever money they need. Don't panic: this 'checkpoint' is apparently very occasional, and by the time you read this, there should be no more checkpoints or roadblocks on the island. Monitor the news when you arrive in Buka.
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Kiunga Nature Tours
In recent years Kiunga has become a popular destination for bird-watchers, mainly due to the expertise of Samuel Kepuknai, an unassuming but passionate naturalist who's an expert on where to find the region's birds. Contact him at Kiunga Nature Tours, to arrange tours up the Fly River or day trips from Tabubil.
The best birding is between April and October when it's drier and the birds are beginning their breeding cycles. Bring some rubber boots for walking in the mud.
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Diving
Diving is one of Tufi's great attractions; there is consistent 30m-plus visibility and one diver we met said 'there are more fish than water out there'. Maloway, Cyclone Reef and Marion Reef are memorable, and the muck diving under Tufi wharf is exceptional. Nearby are some WWII ships easily accessible in shallow water, while the famous B17 'Black Jack' bomber is down the coast. For a full list of dives, with pictures, see www.tufidive.com/diving.html.
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Madang Resort Hotel Melanesian Tourist Services
Runs village tours to the south coast stopping at lookout points, war memorials and Bilbil village to buy pottery. Their harbour cruise uses banana boats to visit the rusting wreckage of Japanese landing craft and take in coral viewing through glass-bottomed boxes at Krangket Island.
Also operating out of Madang Resort is the new MTS Suwannee River, a 98-foot, luxurious live-aboard boat that is available for dive and fishing charters.
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Milne Bay Game Fishing Club
The well-organised Milne Bay Game Fishing Club can advise on boats and is happy to find some gear for you, particularly during one of the regular competitions or the annual Milne Bay Classic, which takes place on the first weekend of December.
For the sports fisherman, Milne Bay has a number of game fish worth trolling, jigging and casting for - giant marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dogtooth tuna, mackerel, barramundi and the Papuan black bass.
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Snorkelling & Diving
Excellent visibility, stunning tropical coral and fish life and countless WWII wrecks make the diving and snorkelling around Madang world famous. Local favourites include Barracuda Point, Magic Passage, Planet Rock and Eel Gardens. There's also good snorkelling just off Lion's Reserve Beach and off the rocks at Madang Lodge and Smugglers Inn Resort, but watch the swell and the tides because the rocks, coral and sea urchins can be hazardous.
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Diving
Alotau has some incredible diving - along the north coast, within the bay and around the islands. Unfortunately there are no longer any diving operators based in Alotau itself. Until another tender starts up, the only way to see some of these incredible seascapes is to travel to Tawali Resort, 1½ hours up the coast. Day trips to Tawali Resort can be arranged through the Milne Bay Tourist Bureau.
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Driftwood fishing safaris
Operating from a newly built boutique hotel, Driftwood offers both saltwater and freshwater fishing safaris using quality Shimano equipment in a variety of boats at a range of prices.
For the sports fisherman, Milne Bay has a number of game fish worth trolling, jigging and casting for - giant marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dogtooth tuna, mackerel, barramundi and the Papuan black bass.
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Tawali Resort diving
Alotau has some incredible diving - along the north coast, within the bay and around the islands. Unfortunately there are no longer any diving operators based in Alotau itself. Until another tender starts up, the only way to see some of these incredible seascapes is to travel to Tawali Resort, 1½ hours up the coast. Day trips to Tawali Resort can be arranged through Napatana Lodge.
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snorkelling
Esa'ala, the district headquarters, is at the entrance to the spectacular Dobu Passage. It's a tiny place, with a couple of stores, a market and a trade store. A reef just offshore offers excellent snorkelling. Snorkelling around the tiny islands of Emanalo, Autoyou and Touwe is particularly rewarding because of the extremely high biodiversity found in these waters.
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Aquaventures PNG
Aquaventures at Jais Aben Resort won a PADI environmental award for raising locals' awareness of reef ecology and sustainable fishing practices. If you dive the nearby Mitchell B-25 bomber, ask to read their folder of information about the wreck. The brutally brief 'lost-in-action' telegrams are quite moving. Aquaventures comes highly recommended.
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Pelagic Pursuits
Kavieng has terrific sportfishing. Now is your chance to tackle marlin, tuna, trevally, jack and sailfish. Run by Peter McEwan, Pelagic Pursuits, located inside the Zen 48 store in Kavieng, offers charter fishing trips. The best area extends off the northern tip of Lavongai (New Hanover). Price starts at around K2500 per day for four anglers.
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Dive Centre
The diving around Port Moresby is excellent. Bootless Bay has world-class diving over reefs and WWII wreckage. Loloata Island is a popular holiday spot for divers. The only dive operator in Moresby itself is the Dive Centre. It offers full PADI courses, equipment, air, and a wide range of diving and snorkelling tours. Very professional.
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Niugini Diving Adventures
The equipment here is older than that of Aquaventures. Night diving is available. Niugini runs PADI open-water certification (around K1000), snorkelling cruises and one-day, two-dive packages (around K220 to around K290) of which the combination wreck/reef dive gives you the best of both worlds. You can also hire gear from both shops.
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