Merzouga & the Dunes

Introducing Merzouga & the Dunes

Erg Chebbi is Morocco’s only genuine Saharan erg, an impressive, drifting chain of sand dunes that can reach 160m and seems to have escaped from the much larger dune field across the nearby border in Algeria. The erg is a magical landscape that deserves much more than the sunrise or sunset glimpse many visitors give it. The dunes are a scene of constant change and fascination as sunlight transforms them from pink to gold to red. The largest dunes are near the villages of Merzouga and Hassi Labied. At night, you only have to walk a little way into the sand, away from the light, to appreciate the immense clarity of the desert sky and the brilliance of its stars.

Merzouga, some 50km south of Erfoud is a tiny village, but does have téléboutiques, general stores, a mechanic and, of course, a couple of carpet shops. It also has an internet place, Merzouga.net (per hr US$0.90; 8am-midnight), and is the focus of fast-expanding tourism in the area. As a result, it is acquiring a reputation for some of the worst hassle in Morocco.

Most hotels offer excursions into the dunes and it’s here that they make their money. Asking prices can be high. At the time of our visit, prices ranged from US$9 to US$14 for a sunrise or, more usual, sunset camel trek lasting a couple of hours. Overnight trips (including a bed in a Berber tent, dinner and breakfast) ranged from US$34 to US$73 per person. Outings in a 4WD are more expensive, costing up to US$136 per day for a car taking up to five passengers.

Last updated: Mar 2, 2009