Things to do in Mongolia
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Hazara
This North Indian restaurant has been serving up delectable dishes for more than a decade, always with the same winning menu and colourful décor. Each table is covered by a colourful samiyan (Rajasthani tent), so it's easy to escape to India for an hour or two while you dine on excellent murgh makhni, naan basket and saffron rice. In terms of pure taste, quality of service, freshness of food and consistency, this is arguably the best restaurant in town. Hazara is located behind the Wrestling Palace.
reviewed
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Khövsgöl Nuur
Known as the Blue Pearl of the Mongolia, Khövsgöl Nuur is an extraordinary lake that stretches 136km deep into the Siberian taiga. The lake and mountains that surround it form the basis for this popular national park, a major destination for both Mongolian and international tourists.
In surface area, this is the second-largest lake (2760 sq km) in Mongolia, surpassed in size only by Uvs Nuur, a shallow, salty lake in the western part of the country. But Khövsgöl Nuur (sometimes transliterated as Hövsgöl or Hovsgol) is Mongolia's deepest lake (up to 262m) as well as the world's 14th-largest source of fresh water - it contains between 1% and 2% of the world's fresh water …
reviewed
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Computerland
Techie travellers will find joy at Computerland a three-storey building crammed with dozens of private dealers selling everything from flash drives to the latest laptops. It is located behind the Canon Showroom, which also has a computer shop.
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Chinggis Club
Micro-brewery serving some of the best beer in the country. There's also a filling meat-and-potatoes menu designed by a German chef.
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Erdene Zuu Khiid
Founded in 1586 by Altai Khaan, Erdene Zuu (Hundred Treasures) was the first Buddhist monastery in Mongolia. It had between 60 and 100 temples, about 300 gers inside the walls and, at its peak, up to 1000 monks in residence.
The monastery went through periods of neglect and prosperity until finally the Stalinist purges of 1937 put it completely out of business. All but three of the temples in Erdene Zuu were destroyed and an unknown number of monks were either killed or shipped off to Siberia and never heard from again.
However, a surprising number of statues, tsam masks and thangkas were saved from the monastery at the time of the purges - possibly with the help of a fe…
reviewed
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Gandan Khiid
The Gandan Khiid is one of Mongolia's most important monasteries, and also one of its biggest tourist attractions. The full name, Gandantegchinlen, translates roughly as 'the great place of complete joy'.
Building was started in 1838 by the fourth Bogd Gegeen, but like most monasteries in Mongolia the purges of 1937 fell heavily on Gandan. When US Vice President Henry Wallace asked to see a monastery during his visit to Mongolia in 1944, then prime minister Choibalsan guiltily scrambled to open this one to cover up the fact that he had recently laid waste to Mongolia's religious heritage. The khiid remained a 'show monastery' for other foreign visitors until 1990 when ful…
reviewed
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Sükhbaatar Square
In July 1921 in the centre of Ulaanbaatar, the 'hero of the revolution', Damdin Sükhbaatar, declared Mongolia's final independence from the Chinese. The Square now bears his name and features a statue of him astride his horse. Sükhbaatar would have been very disappointed to learn that the Square was also where the first protests were held in 1990, which eventually led to the fall of communism in Mongolia.
Today, the Square is occasionally used for rallies, ceremonies and even rock concerts, but is generally a serene place where only the photographers are doing anything. Near the centre of the square, look for the large plaque that lists the former names of the city - Ör…
reviewed
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Mandshir Khiid to Ulaanbaatar Hike
This approach to Tsetseegün from the south side is the easiest route by far. As you face the monastery, cut over to your right (east) until you get to the stream. Just follow the stream until it nearly disappears and then head north. About three hours' walking should bring you out over a ridge into a broad boggy meadow, which you'll have to cross. If you've walked straight to the north, the twin rocky outcrops of the summit should be right in front of you.
When you start to see Ulaanbaatar in the distance, you're on the highest ridge and close to the two large ovoo (a shamanistic pyramid-shaped collection of stones as an offering to the gods) on the summit (GPS: N47° 48.…
reviewed
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Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts
The Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts has a superb collection of paintings, carvings and sculptures, including many by the revered sculptor and artist Zanabazar. It also contains other rare, and sometimes old, religious exhibits such as scroll thangka(paintings) and Buddhist statues, representing the best display of its kind in Mongolia. A bonus is that most of the exhibit captions in the museum are in English.
The second room contains some fine examples of the sculptor's work including five Dhyani, or Contemplation, Buddhas (cast in 1683) and Tara in her 21 manifestations.
Also worth checking out are the wonderful tsam masks (worn by monks during religious ceremonies) and the…
reviewed
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Mongolian National Modern Art Gallery
Sometimes called the Fine Art Gallery, it contains a large and impressive display of modern and uniquely Mongolian paintings and sculptures. It has a mixture of depictions of nomadic life, people and landscapes, ranging from impressionistic to nationalistic. The Soviet romantic paintings depicted in thangka style are especially interesting, but the most famous work is Tsevegjav Ochir's 1958 The Fight of the Stallions.
The entrance is in the courtyard of the Palace of Culture. The main gallery is on the 3rd floor, there are temporary exhibits on the 2nd floor and a shop on the 1st floor.
reviewed
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Stepperiders Camp
Horses are available from Stepperiders Camp, just off the main Ulaanbaatar-Zuunmod road. Stepperiders is run by Minde, a recommended local horse guide who can give lessons, instructions and support to independent travellers planning their own expedition. This is a perfect place to test ride a Mongolian horse before a longer trip. Rides are great value at US$35 to US$50 per day and include pick-up, drop-off, guides, horses, food and even entry fees to the national park.
As this camp is something of a hang-out for dedicated horse riders, you may be able to find partners for a trip.
reviewed
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Silk Road Bar & Grill
Owner and chef Enkhee (aka Eddie) is Mongolia's original restaurateur. Silk Road, his third restaurant, features lots of cosy couches and bas-relief scenes of the ancient Silk Road from China to Europe. The menu reflects the name of the place, and you'll find sprinklings of Indian, Central Asian and Mediterranean treats, including shish kebabs, chicken tikka and pork gyros (pitta with meat and vegetables). You can try a sampling of these at the Sunday smorgasbord (between 12:30 and 15:00).
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Millie's Café
Drop by Millie's at noon any day of the week and you'll find the place packed with consultants, aid workers and journalists sipping excellent shakes and gobbling steak sandwiches and lemon pie. The restaurant completely changes for dinner time; tablecloths are spread out, candles are lit and a gourmet menu appears. Dinner is a fusion of Mediterranean, Cuban and South African cuisines; presentation is perfect and taste impeccable.
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Friendship Monument
The communist Friendship Monument is worth a quick look. On the way from the town centre you pass a fine Marx mural and a picture of Lenin bolted to the wall. A little further to the east, the ovoo (a shamanistic collection of stones, wood or other offerings) is impressive if you haven't seen too many before. The hills north of the monument and south of the stadium are great for short hikes.
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BD's Mongolian Barbeque
This is the first American chain restaurant to open a franchise in Mongolia - ironically, it's not American cuisine but Mongolian barbecue. Despite the staged atmosphere, Mongolians seem to like it and it's certainly a filling option if you're half-starved after a countryside trip. Profits from the restaurant go to the Mongolian Youth Development Federation (MYDF).
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Federation for the Preservation of Mahayana Tradition
The Federation for the Preservation of Mahayana Tradition is involved in the regeneration of Buddhist culture in Mongolia. The centre offers free lectures and courses on various aspects of Buddhist tradition and meditation. Lectures are given in English (at the time of writing, Monday to Thursday, 18:30); look for the pink-tiled building west of the Mormon Church.
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Narya Café
The Latin music playing in the background, ochre-painted walls and contemporary artwork make for a pleasant sight when entering this laid-back café. The menu offers reasonably priced sandwiches, soups and home-baked muffins, plus hot dishes such as a 'sloppy dorj' (the Mongolian version of a sloppy joe). Food quality can be inconsistent.
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Kazakh Tour
Friendly guide and owner Dosjan Khabyl has tailor-made trips throughout Bayan-Ölgii and leads trekking tours around Tavan Bogd. He speaks English, Mongolian, Russian and Kazakh, and gets good reviews from travellers. The Ölgii office is next to Pamukkale restaurant.
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Gobi Cashmere Shop
The major cashmere and wool factories are Goyo (Mongolian-American joint venture), Gobi Cashmere (government-owned) and Buyan (owned by the prominent politician Jargalsaikhan). Excellent products can be purchased at the Gobi Cashmere Shop opposite the Russian Embassy.
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Samar Magic Tours
Based at El Latino restaurant, this company runs fishing expeditions and a ger camp near Terelj. Contact Spanish- and English-speaking Christo Camilo Gavilla Gomez.
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El Latino
Cuban restaurant with colourful décor. However, the chef is from Belarus so there are also some tasty Russian dishes.
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Librairie Papillon
Ulaanbaatar's finest bookshop, although almost everything is in French.
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Café Amsterdam
At the time of writing this place was set to open as Mongolia first literary café. The Dutch owners have promised café au lait, pannekoeken (crepes) and homemade cheese (in season), as well as shelves of books that you can borrow, trade or buy. Poetry readings and guest speakers are expected so check the chalkboard for upcoming events.
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Choijin Lama Temple Museum
This temple-museum is a hidden gem of architecture and history, smack in the middle of downtown Ulaanbaatar. Sadly, it's under threat of losing its quaint character, as shoddily constructed buildings are thrown up all around it. Already the view of the complex is hindered by ugly buildings that now form its backdrop.
Still, Choijin Lama is well-worth a visit. It was the home of Luvsan Haidav Choijin Lama ('Choijin' is an honorary title given to some monks), the state oracle and brother of the Bogd Khan. The construction of the monastery commenced in 1904 and was completed four years later. It was closed in 1938 and probably would have been demolished but it was saved as …
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