Sights in Mongolia
-
Khövsgöl Nuur
Known as the Blue Pearl of the Mongolia, Khövsgöl Nuur is an extraordinary lake that stretches 136km deep into the Siberian taiga. The lake and mountains that surround it form the basis for this popular national park, a major destination for both Mongolian and international tourists.
In surface area, this is the second-largest lake (2760 sq km) in Mongolia, surpassed in size only by Uvs Nuur, a shallow, salty lake in the western part of the country. But Khövsgöl Nuur (sometimes transliterated as Hövsgöl or Hovsgol) is Mongolia's deepest lake (up to 262m) as well as the world's 14th-largest source of fresh water - it contains between 1% and 2% of the world's fresh water…
reviewed
-
Erdene Zuu Khiid
Founded in 1586 by Altai Khaan, Erdene Zuu (Hundred Treasures) was the first Buddhist monastery in Mongolia. It had between 60 and 100 temples, about 300 gers inside the walls and, at its peak, up to 1000 monks in residence.
The monastery went through periods of neglect and prosperity until finally the Stalinist purges of 1937 put it completely out of business. All but three of the temples in Erdene Zuu were destroyed and an unknown number of monks were either killed or shipped off to Siberia and never heard from again.
However, a surprising number of statues, tsam masks and thangkas were saved from the monastery at the time of the purges - possibly with the help of a…
reviewed
-
A
Gandan Khiid
The Gandan Khiid is one of Mongolia's most important monasteries, and also one of its biggest tourist attractions. The full name, Gandantegchinlen, translates roughly as 'the great place of complete joy'.
Building was started in 1838 by the fourth Bogd Gegeen, but like most monasteries in Mongolia the purges of 1937 fell heavily on Gandan. When US Vice President Henry Wallace asked to see a monastery during his visit to Mongolia in 1944, then prime minister Choibalsan guiltily scrambled to open this one to cover up the fact that he had recently laid waste to Mongolia's religious heritage. The khiid remained a 'show monastery' for other foreign visitors until 1990 when…
reviewed
-
Sükhbaatar Square
In July 1921 in the centre of Ulaanbaatar, the 'hero of the revolution', Damdin Sükhbaatar, declared Mongolia's final independence from the Chinese. The Square now bears his name and features a statue of him astride his horse. Sükhbaatar would have been very disappointed to learn that the Square was also where the first protests were held in 1990, which eventually led to the fall of communism in Mongolia.
Today, the Square is occasionally used for rallies, ceremonies and even rock concerts, but is generally a serene place where only the photographers are doing anything. Near the centre of the square, look for the large plaque that lists the former names of the city -…
reviewed
-
B
Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts
The Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts has a superb collection of paintings, carvings and sculptures, including many by the revered sculptor and artist Zanabazar. It also contains other rare, and sometimes old, religious exhibits such as scroll thangka(paintings) and Buddhist statues, representing the best display of its kind in Mongolia. A bonus is that most of the exhibit captions in the museum are in English.
The second room contains some fine examples of the sculptor's work including five Dhyani, or Contemplation, Buddhas (cast in 1683) and Tara in her 21 manifestations.
Also worth checking out are the wonderful tsam masks (worn by monks during religious ceremonies) and the…
reviewed
-
C
Mongolian National Modern Art Gallery
Sometimes called the Fine Art Gallery, it contains a large and impressive display of modern and uniquely Mongolian paintings and sculptures. It has a mixture of depictions of nomadic life, people and landscapes, ranging from impressionistic to nationalistic. The Soviet romantic paintings depicted in thangka style are especially interesting, but the most famous work is Tsevegjav Ochir's 1958 The Fight of the Stallions.
The entrance is in the courtyard of the Palace of Culture. The main gallery is on the 3rd floor, there are temporary exhibits on the 2nd floor and a shop on the 1st floor.
reviewed
-
D
Friendship Monument
The communist Friendship Monument is worth a quick look. On the way from the town centre you pass a fine Marx mural and a picture of Lenin bolted to the wall. A little further to the east, the ovoo (a shamanistic collection of stones, wood or other offerings) is impressive if you haven't seen too many before. The hills north of the monument and south of the stadium are great for short hikes.
reviewed
-
E
Choijin Lama Temple Museum
This temple-museum is a hidden gem of architecture and history, smack in the middle of downtown Ulaanbaatar. Sadly, it's under threat of losing its quaint character, as shoddily constructed buildings are thrown up all around it. Already the view of the complex is hindered by ugly buildings that now form its backdrop.
Still, Choijin Lama is well-worth a visit. It was the home of Luvsan Haidav Choijin Lama ('Choijin' is an honorary title given to some monks), the state oracle and brother of the Bogd Khan. The construction of the monastery commenced in 1904 and was completed four years later. It was closed in 1938 and probably would have been demolished but it was saved as…
reviewed
-
Mandshir Khiid
For the 350 monks who once called this place home, the gorgeous setting around this monastery must have been a daily inspiration. Like most monasteries in Mongolia, Mandshir Khiid was destroyed in 1937 by Stalin's thugs, but was partially restored in the 1990s. Just 6km northeast of Zuunmod and 46km by road from Ulaanbaatar, the monastery is a perfect half-day trip from the capital, or can be used as a starting point for hikes into the Strictly Protected Area.
The main temple has been restored and converted into a museum, but the other buildings in the area remain in ruins. The monastery and museum are not as impressive as those in Ulaanbaatar - it is the beautiful forest…
reviewed
-
Eastern Shore
The eastern shore is less mountainous than the west, but offers spectacular views across the lake. There is wildlife, golden fields of grass and plenty of fishing holes. It gets far fewer visitors than the western shore making it a great destination for travellers seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience. The main drawback to this side of the lake is the appalling road that heads up to Khankh, possibly the worst stretch of road we encountered in 15,000km of overland travel! Expect mud, rocks, roots and the odd collapsed bridge.
From Khatgal, head for the bridge over the Egiin Gol, where you may need to ask directions. The trail meanders over some hills and continues past…
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Amarbayasgalant Khiid
Amarbayasgalant Khiid was originally built between 1727 and 1737 by the Manchu emperor Yongzheng, and dedicated to the great Mongolian Buddhist and sculptor, Zanabazar, whose mummified body was moved here in 1779. The monastery is in the Manchu style, down to the inscriptions, symmetrical layout and imperial colour scheme.
The communists moseyed in around 1937, but 'only' destroyed 10 out of the 37 temples and statues, possibly because of sympathetic and procrastinating local military commanders. The monastery was extensively restored between 1975 and 1990 with the help of Unesco. These days about 30 monks live in the monastery, compared with more than 2000 in 1936.
The…
reviewed
-
F
National Museum of Mongolian History
Still sometimes referred to by its previous name, the Revolutionary Museum, the National Museum of Mongolian History is an Ulaanbaatar highlight.
The recently renovated 1st floor has some interesting exhibits on Stone Age sites in Mongolia (dating back 700,000 years), as well as petroglyphs, deer stones (stone sculptures of reindeer and other animals) and burial sites from the Hun and Uighur eras.
The 2nd floor houses an outstanding collection of costumes, hats and jewellery, representing most of Mongolia's ethnic groups. Take a gander as some of the elaborate silverwork of the Dariganga minority or the outrageous headgear worn by Khalkh Mongols. Some of the outfits…
reviewed
-
Copper Mine
The open-cut Copper Mine, easily seen to the north of the city, is one of the 10-largest copper mines in the world. It's also a tremendous burden on the country's infrastructure and consumes nearly 50% of Mongolia's electricity.
Open-cut mining is more damaging to the environment but infinitely safer than digging mine shafts below the surface. Also, since this particular mountain is almost solid copper and molybdenum ore, this is the only practical way to reach it. Despite the destruction of the mountain, the long-term environmental effects aren't as bad as the gold mines in nearby Zaamar, where rivers are being polluted and poisoned.
The mine accounts for around 40% of…
reviewed
-
Günjiin Süm
Surrounded by magnificent forests and not far from a lovely river, the Baruun Bayan Gol, the Buddhist temple of Günjiin Süm was built in 1740 by Efu Dondovdorj to commemorate the death of his Manchurian wife, Amarlangui. Once part of a huge monastery containing about 70 sq metres of blue walls, five other temples and a tower, Günjiin Süm is one of very few Manchurian-influenced temples in Mongolia to survive over the centuries.
Only the main temple, and some of the walls of the monastery, remain. Unlike most other monasteries in Mongolia, Günjiin Süm was not destroyed during the Stalinist purges, but simply fell into ruin from neglect, vandalism and theft.
The temple…
reviewed
-
Winter Palace of Bogd Khan
Built between 1893 and 1903, this palace is the place where Mongolia's eighth Living Buddha, and last king, Jebtzun Damba Hutagt VIII (often called the Bogd Khan), lived for 20 years. For reasons that are unclear, the palace was spared destruction by the Russians and turned into a museum. The summer palace, on the banks of Tuul Gol, was completely destroyed.
There are six temples in the grounds. The white building to the right as you enter is the Winter Palace itself. It contains a collection of gifts received from foreign dignitaries, such as a pair of golden boots from a Russian tsar, a robe made from 80 unfortunate foxes and a ger lined with the skins of 150 snow…
reviewed
-
G
Museum of Natural History
The Museum of Natural History is a serious throwback to the Soviet era. It has exhibits featuring Mongolia's geography, flora and fauna, including the requisite section with stuffed and embalmed animals, birds and even fish. The general impression, however, is that you've stumbled into the warehouse of a long-deceased taxidermist, rather than into a serious scientific exhibition. Some of the animals have been fixed with puzzling expressions, as if they remain perplexed as to how they ended up in such an unfortunate state. In any case, budding geologists may appreciate the generally stoic meteorites.
The most impressive section is the Palaeontology Hall and its array of…
reviewed
-
H
Victims of Political Persecution Memorial Museum
The little-known Victims of Political Persecution Memorial Museum consists of a series of haunting displays chronicling the bloody communist purges of the 1930s - an aggressive campaign to eliminate 'counter-revolutionaries'. During the campaign, intellectuals were arrested and put on trial, sent to Siberian labour camps or shot. Mongolia lost top writers, scientists and thinkers. One hall reveals this tragedy most vividly with a display of human skulls pierced with bullet holes.
The museum was inspired by the deeds of former prime minister P Genden, who was executed in Moscow by the Komitet Gosudarstvennoy Bezopasnosti (KGB; Committee for State Security) in 1937 for…
reviewed
-
Migjid Janraisig Süm
At the end of the main path as you enter the Gandan Khiid is the magnificent white Migjid Janraisig Süm, the monastery's main attraction. Lining the walls of the temple are hundreds of images of Ayush, the Buddha of longevity, which stare through the gloom to the magnificent Migjid Janraisig statue.
The original statue was commissioned by the eighth Bogd Khan in 1911, in hopes that it might restore his eyesight - syphilis had blinded him; however it was carted away by Russia in 1937 (it was allegedly melted down to make bullets). The new statue was dedicated in 1996 and built with donations from Japan and Nepal. It is 26m high and made of copper with a gilt gold…
reviewed
-
Tumen Amgalan
The centrepiece of the city was the Tumen Amgalan, or Palace of Worldly Peace, in the southwest corner of the city. This 2500-sq-metre complex, built in 1235, was the palace of Ögedei Khaan. The two-storey palace had a vast reception hall for receiving ambassadors, and its 64 pillars resembled the nave of a church. The walls were painted, the green-tiled floor had underfloor heating, and the Chinese-style roof was covered in green and red tiles.
Whenever he was at court, the khaan sat on a panther skin atop a great throne, to which stairs ascended from one side and descended from the other.
A team of German archaeologists recently uncovered the foundations of the palace,…
reviewed
-
Museum
Baruun-Urt's surprisingly good Museum has a fine collection of costumes representing the three ethnic groups that inhabit the region: the majority Khalkh, Dariganga (30,000 live in the south of Sükhbaatar aimag) and Uzemchin (about 2000 live in Dornod aimag and Sükhbaatar aimag). Look out for the brass-studded Uzemchin wrestling jacket. From the square, walk 400m south and turn right. The museum is just past the theatre.
There are also beautiful examples of products from Dariganga's renowned silversmiths and blacksmiths (often these are on loan to museums elsewhere in the world), some stuffed gazelle, a map showing the locations of the 'man' and 'woman' balbal (stone…
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Museum of Danzan Ravjaa
Noyon Khutagt Danzan Ravjaa (1803-56), a well-known Mongolian writer, composer, painter and medic, was born about 100km southwest of Sainshand. The museum has a collection of gifts presented to Danzan Ravjaa by Chinese and Tibetan leaders, costumes used in his plays, Buddhist statues presented to him by the 10th Dalai Lama, and some of Ravjaa's paintings. He was also very interested in traditional medicine, so the museum also has a collection of herbs.
In the centre of the museum is a statue of Danzan Ravjaa looming in the darkness. Note the small glass jar in front of the statue, which contains Danzan Ravjaa's bones; the poet's mummified body was burned along with his…
reviewed
-
Western Shore
From Khatgal, a reasonable road first heads southwest before swinging northeast across several dry riverbeds and over the pass, Jankhai Davaa, 17km from Khatgal, where you receive your first magical glimpse of the lake. The road continues past the gorgeous headlands of Jankhai, once a Russian scientist station, and Toilogt, pronounced 'Toy-logt' but routinely mispronounced 'Toilet' by most travellers, where there is a rash of ger camps. The road then gradually deteriorates. A jeep can travel about 10km past Toilogt, after which the trail becomes overgrown and is best managed on horseback for the trip up to Jiglegiin Am, almost exactly halfway up the western shore. From…
reviewed
-
Museum of Arkhangai Aimag
The Museum of Arkhangai Aimag is one of the best in the country. It's housed in the temple complex of Zayain Gegeenii Süm, which was first built in 1586 but expanded in 1679, when it housed five temples and up to 1000 monks. Miraculously, the monastery escaped the Stalinist purges because it was made into a museum.
The main hall concentrates on features of traditional Mongolian lifestyle, with exhibits of costumes, traditional tools, a ger, musical instruments, weaponry and saddles. The displays have some useful English captions. The second hall concentrates on religious icons. The other two rooms of the former main prayer hall are empty, while the last hall focuses on…
reviewed
-
I
Centre of Shaman Eternal Heavenly Sophistication
Ulaanbaatar's official Shaman Centre is a ramshackle collection of squalid gers teetering on the slope that leads to Gandan Monastery. While not particularly mystifying at first sight, this is the real deal, with a bona fide shaman at its helm, holding daily court. The resident shaman, Zorigtbaatar, is known for his fiery orations that rile up the faithful into a frenzy. There are two gers: one that honours the shamanic spirits and another that replicates nature, complete with a small lake, trees and stuffed animals. It is in the nature ger where the shaman performs his dance. If there is a ceremony going on, and you want your fortune told, you'll need to make a small…
reviewed
-
Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid
Like most monasteries in Mongolia, this one (built in 1992) replaces the original monastery, Bangiin Khuree, which was destroyed in 1937. About 1000 monks lived and worshipped at Bangiin Khuree before they were arrested and, presumably, executed. The remains of several stupas from the old monastery complex can be seen nearby.
The modern monastery contains statues of Tsongkhapa and Sakyamuni and features a painting of the old monastery layout. About 30 monks now reside there. The monastery is about 2.5km southwest of Bulgan City and is hidden behind some hills. The run down pavilion next to the temple, called Divajin, was built in 1876
reviewed