Northwest Mexico

Introducing Northwest Mexico

A battle of blues characterizes northwest Mexico, a diverse region notable for the striking lucidity of the azure Sea of Cortez waters and the crystal-clear cobalt skies of the Sierra Madre. In between is a region of deep canyons, dusty deserts and colonial villages with cobblestone streets.

Most visitors to this dusty delight are bound for one of two surreal landscapes: the Barranca del Cobre – spectacular gorges and mountain cliffs that comprise a system of canyons that surpasses the Grand Canyon in mass, depth and accessibility – and the thrilling railway that runs through it; or the postcard-perfect beaches of the Sea of Cortez, so easily accessed from the southwestern US that many towns here – Puerto Peñasco and San Carlos among them – are beginning to offer more vacation condos and burger joints than beach shacks and burritos.

While these folks lend a conspicuously American feel to many communities, there is no shortage of indigenous wonders. The area around Bahía de Kino is known for its alive-and-well Seri culture, while the Barranca del Cobre thrives with the vibrantly clad cave-dwelling Rarámuri, who offset the warm earth tones of the canyons with kaleidoscopic bursts of color in the chasms.

The area has a couple of major cities, including laid-back Hermosillo, plus charming villages like Álamos and El Fuerte. And you’re never too far from the 12, 950-sq-km Desierto Sonorense, an ecological treasure of biological riches. No matter where you go, keep your eyes on the horizon: the entire northwest erupts with dreamlike vistas, whether it be the glow of a desert sunset or the penetrating cerulean skies across the dramatic Barranca del Cobre.

History

The lands that stretch south from Nogales have served as a gateway to Mexico since the first explorers passed this way some 30, 000 years ago. The Pima – direct descendants of those early visitors – established an elaborate system of irrigation that transformed the desert into agricultural lands. The region’s colonial history dates from 1687, when the Italian Jesuit missionary Father Eusebio Francisco Kino began establishing missions and making inroads with the indigenous peoples, ultimately tying their destinies to the rest of Nueva España.

In the 19th century, the coastal waters of the Sea of Cortez (Golfo de California) were witness to many naval battles, with most of the action centered on the port jewel of Guaymas, as various world powers challenged Mexico’s fledgling independence and coveted its mineral wealth. Between Guaymas and Ciudad Obregón is the ancestral home of the fiercely independent Yaqui tribe, which aggressively resisted the forces of colonialism up until its last rebellion in 1901. The nomadic Seris of the central Sonoran coastal and desert lands fought a losing battle for their way of life, though their population is now steadily increasing.

In recent years, the northwest region of Mexico has seen an influx of tourism, causing an economic boom and raising eyebrows with environmentalists and culture conservationists who worry that Fonatur (Mexico’s gung-ho, pro-development tourism agency) could turn much of this region into another Cancún. It is forging ahead with the construction of condos, a new scenic coastal highway and a network of fancy marinas that would link Puerto Peñasco with waterfront towns to the north and south, drastically changing the serene nature of the coastline and disturbing estuaries and diverse marine life.

Last updated: Jul 22, 2009